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people seem to be overwhelmed by the technicality of port
making. Although the process is complicated, and there
are large numbers of different grapes involved, we can
take a look at its origins and the winemaking process
in a way that simplifies it and, I hope, make the drinking
of ports more pleasurable. This segment gives you some
insight into the origin of port, how it is made, and the
important phase of fermentation and fortification.
It is hard to imagine that such a wonderful
winter warming drink as port would ever have been conceived
in such a hot and sunny country as Portugal. Popular belief
has it that that it was not the Portuguese but the British
who were responsible for Port; however, that is not entirely
accurate. We can thank the Portuguese for dreaming up
this most classic of winesthe British merely capitalized
on their original idea.
In the late 1600s, two Englishmen were
sent by a Liverpool wine merchant to Viana do Castello,
north of Oporto, to learn the wine trade. Holidaying on
the Douro River, they were entertained by the Abbott of
Lamego. Finding this wine “very agreeable, sweetish,
and extremely smooth” they asked what made it exceptional
among all others tasted on their journey. The Abbott confessed
to doctoring the wine with brandy; despite his confession,
the English were so pleased with the result that they
purchased the entire stock and shipped it home.
If any wine is perceived as having
been “trodden” it is Port.
This is perhaps because the pressing and
winemaking traditionally takes place in the vineyards where,
until recently, affairs were conducted on farms in rather
rustic style.
Nowadays, few Ports are trodden, although
several houses have showpiece lagars (rectangular concrete
receptacles) in which people tread the grapes. The object
in treading is to extract the maximum of coloring matter
from the skins, because so much is lost by fortification.
The initial fermentation phase of Port
differs little from wine in the rest of the world, except
that vinification temperatures are often as high as 90F
(32C). The high heat has no detrimental effect on Port
and probably accounts for its chocolaty, high PH complexity.
When a level of about six to eight per cent alcohol has
been achieved, the wine is fortified (unlike Sherry, where
the fermentation process is allowed to complete its natural
course).
Port derives its sweetness from the
fermentation of sugars in the fruit, while sweet Sherries
are created from totally dry wine to which a syrupy concentrate
is added. The timing of the addition of brandy is dependent
on sugar reading and the alcohol level. When the sweetness
of the fermenting juice has dropped to approximately 90
grams of sugar per liter, the alcoholic strength will
normally be between 6% and 8%, although this varies according
to the richness of the juice (which in turn is dependent
on the grape variety, where it is grown and the year).
Although it is commonly said that Port
is fortified with brandy, the use of the word "brandy"
is somewhat misleading. It is not in fact brandy, but
a clear, flavorless grape distilled spirit of 77% alcohol
known in Portugal as aguardente. The fortification results
in a much higher percentage of alcohol. The average percent
of alcohol in Port is 18% to 21%. There are at least 48
grape varieties permitted in the production of Port. Six
of the most widely used, and perhaps the best, Port grape
varieties are:
The ports that I recommend in this
article are not inexpensive. The key focus will be the
vintage selected, the wine maker, and the style selected.
Any of these ports could be aged for
at least 20 to 40 years before consuming. (Make sure you
drink it with people who know.) I understand that some
of these ports will be difficult to find but this is why
at ABC Fine Wine and Spirits we combine our efforts to
research and to find the best available wines for you.
Cheers,
Jean L'Hereault
is a certified Sommelier and a wine consultant for ABC
Fine Wine & Spirits. Questions for Jean can be
sent to Taste Dining & Travel or e-mailed to
finelli@tasteweb.net.
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