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 outhwest
Florida summers are very warm and humid, and I
can think of nothing better that a fresh, cool
glass of rosé (not white zinfandel), to sip either
with lunch or for an afternoon refresher. This
month I will share with you the beautiful wine
of La Cote de Provence, a region that produces
fabulous, light, very refreshing flavors.
Provence has a magical power of attraction. The
name alone can evoke a yearning for sunshine,
azure skies, rocky bays with clear blue water,
umbrella pines and the intense scent of wild herbs
such as thyme and lavender. Wine lovers will appreciate
that Provence is also something like an El Dorado
for wine.
The popularity of Provence, and particularly its
wines, began in 1936, when the Front Populaire
government introduced paid holidays for everyone.
After WW II, summer tourism exploded, plastering
the whole coast with accommodation buildings of
all kinds in order to absorb the hundreds of thousands
of sun-seeking visitors. Summer holiday menus
also assumed Provençal guise, consisting of foods
like mesclun (mixed green salad), tomatoes, ratatouille,
grilled fish, lamb cutlets and aioli (garlic mayonnaise).
The wine, as the food, was local: Provence's ice-cooled
rosé.
The region of Provence has four small areas of
cultivation that have long been famous: Bandol,
Cassis, Bellet and Palette. These regions consistently
produce fascinating wines of great expressiveness
and quality.
In the early 1930's Provençal growers went over
to mass production. They planted mainly Carignan,
Cincaut and Grenache vines for the Gros Rouge.
Apart from the three varieties mentioned above
there are Syrah, Mourvedre, Cabernet plus Vermentino
(which is an attractive, aromatic white grape
grown in Sardinia; the same grape is called "Liguira"
in Corsica), Sémillon, Sauvignon, (could be Sauvignon
Jaune, Noir, Rosé or Gris) and Marsanne.
What type of food should I serve with these beautiful,
refreshing wines? Although wine is not always
a good match with a salad, imagine a nice, warm
duck breast with a balsamic reduction over the
mesclun. Or perhaps a nice mussels or bouillabaisse
dish with a glass of Cote de Provence white, a
blend of Rolle and Sémillon. Grilled lamb chops
or a slow cooked leg of lamb with a Cote de Provence
red, a blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre.
Grilled salmon over a wild mushroom risotto with
either of these wines would also be a perfect
match. The spices and aromas present in the wines
of Provence make it possible to pair a red wine
with fish, or a white with meat.
Now for the Wines of the Month:
The grapes in a Provençal rosé are usually a blend
of Syrah and Grenache; the white, a blend of Rolle
and Sémillon; and the red a blend of Syrah, Grenache
and Mourvedre.
The perfect wine may seem difficult
to find, especially with unfamiliar grape varieties.
At ABC Fine Wine and Spirits we are always happy
to answer questions and help you select the best
wine, whether an old favorite or a new taste for
your summer gathering. Thank you all for your
suggestions, questions and support. Your feedback
and questions have helped make these articles
more informative and useful for everyone.
Jean
L’Hereault is
a certified Sommelier and a wine consultant for
ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Questions
for Jean can be sent to Taste Dining &
Travel or e-mailed to finelli@tasteweb.net.
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