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Where's The Cork?
ou
may have noticed lately that a lot of new wines, and well-known
wines as well, have begun replacing the traditional cork
with what have been sometimes called "screw caps." While
perhaps a confusing (if not surprising) change to traditionalists,
the "Stelvin" closure is here to stay. And, while it may
be difficult to imagine your favorite wine with a Stelvin
closure instead of the cork you are accustomed to, there
are several benefits.
The Stelvin closure is made of non-corroding metal, usually
an alloy of aluminum, lined with molded cork and an inert
film in contact with the wine. One of its advantages is
that it requires no equipment to remove (or replace) it.
The Stelvin closure can last many years (and has kept
white wines fresh for at least 10 years), although to
some traditionalists it still is considered a newcomer,
yet to prove itself the equal of cork for extended bottle
aging.
Other benefits of the Stelvin closure:
- Eliminate cork taint, a condition
which causes the wine to have
a musty smell and taste.
- Are convenient: Simply replace
the cap and twist to re-seal.
- Eliminate oxidation: A condition
which dulls the wine.
- Preserve the wine's freshness:
Aromatic and varietal characters
are preserved, enhancing the wine's
ability to age.
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If you still aren't certain, consider buying a bottle traditionally
corked, and one of the same varietal with a Stelvin closure.
Invite a few friends over, pour the wine, savor the bouquet,
and allow yourself to fully taste each. You may be pleasantly
surprised.
What About Ratings?
Since most people drink wine, not ratings, it is easy to
overstate their importance. Look around the wine section
of your local wine and spirits retailer, and you will
see reviews and ratings everywhere. A reviewer you trust
can be a gold-mine of information about new wines, or
new vintages of old favorites. On the other hand, it could
be argued that we pay too much attention to the ratings,
and not enough to our own experience.
To top it off, ratings can be downright confusing-for example,
when you see two wine critics giving the same wine two
different ratings, or changing the rating on a vintage
between barrel and bottle. And often by paying attention
only to ratings, we miss out on the hundreds of great
wines that never get scored (they really can taste only
so much wine). At ABC Fine Wine&Spirits our wine buyers
and wine supervisors travel worldwide, several times a
year, tasting hundreds of wines. As often as possible
we add these tasting notes to our files and make them
available to you, via our website, newsletters, and store
tags.
Wherever you shop, don't hesitate to ask the wine consultant
or manager about particular wines. Remember, the ratings
are great, and written reviews can tell you a lot-especially
when choosing a wine to go with dinner, but a lot of wonderful
wines simply never get rated, nor do they necessarily
cost a lot. Wines like Edgewood sell for about $20 a bottle,
and are almost impossible to keep in stock. Read reviews,
ask questions, and don't be afraid to try something new.
I hope to see you at our new location on University Parkway
in early January. Happy New Year!
Jean LHereault is
a certified Sommelier and a wine consultant for ABC
Fine Wine & Spirits. Questions for Jean can be
sent to Taste Dining & Travel or
e-mailed to finelli@tasteweb.net.
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