Where's The Cork? And, the Rating Game
By Judi Gallagher
 

 

Where's The Cork? And, the Rating Game

Where's The Cork?

ou may have noticed lately that a lot of new wines, and well-known wines as well, have begun replacing the traditional cork with what have been sometimes called "screw caps." While perhaps a confusing (if not surprising) change to traditionalists, the "Stelvin" closure is here to stay. And, while it may be difficult to imagine your favorite wine with a Stelvin closure instead of the cork you are accustomed to, there are several benefits.

The Stelvin closure is made of non-corroding metal, usually an alloy of aluminum, lined with molded cork and an inert film in contact with the wine. One of its advantages is that it requires no equipment to remove (or replace) it. The Stelvin closure can last many years (and has kept white wines fresh for at least 10 years), although to some traditionalists it still is considered a newcomer, yet to prove itself the equal of cork for extended bottle aging.

Other benefits of the Stelvin closure:
  • Eliminate cork taint, a condition which causes the wine to have a musty smell and taste.
  • Are convenient: Simply replace the cap and twist to re-seal.
  • Eliminate oxidation: A condition which dulls the wine.
  • Preserve the wine's freshness: Aromatic and varietal characters are preserved, enhancing the wine's ability to age.
If you still aren't certain, consider buying a bottle traditionally corked, and one of the same varietal with a Stelvin closure. Invite a few friends over, pour the wine, savor the bouquet, and allow yourself to fully taste each. You may be pleasantly surprised.

What About Ratings?

Since most people drink wine, not ratings, it is easy to overstate their importance. Look around the wine section of your local wine and spirits retailer, and you will see reviews and ratings everywhere. A reviewer you trust can be a gold-mine of information about new wines, or new vintages of old favorites. On the other hand, it could be argued that we pay too much attention to the ratings, and not enough to our own experience.

To top it off, ratings can be downright confusing-for example, when you see two wine critics giving the same wine two different ratings, or changing the rating on a vintage between barrel and bottle. And often by paying attention only to ratings, we miss out on the hundreds of great wines that never get scored (they really can taste only so much wine). At ABC Fine Wine&Spirits our wine buyers and wine supervisors travel worldwide, several times a year, tasting hundreds of wines. As often as possible we add these tasting notes to our files and make them available to you, via our website, newsletters, and store tags.

Wherever you shop, don't hesitate to ask the wine consultant or manager about particular wines. Remember, the ratings are great, and written reviews can tell you a lot-especially when choosing a wine to go with dinner, but a lot of wonderful wines simply never get rated, nor do they necessarily cost a lot. Wines like Edgewood sell for about $20 a bottle, and are almost impossible to keep in stock. Read reviews, ask questions, and don't be afraid to try something new. I hope to see you at our new location on University Parkway in early January. Happy New Year! 

Jean L’Hereault is a certified Sommelier and a wine consultant for ABC Fine Wine & Spirits. Questions for Jean can be sent to Taste Dining & Travel or
e-mailed to finelli@tasteweb.net.

 

   
 
 
E-mail: finelli@tasteweb.net
Last Updated: March 9, 2005    CopyrightŠ2008  Taste Dining&Travel. All Rights Reserved.
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