Great Finds in Cape Cod

by Vanessa Shaw-Finelli

HISTORY

ape Cod, Massachusetts called The Cape by Northeasterners, was originally connected to the mainland, but the Cape Cod Canal, completed in 1914, effectively transformed Cape Cod into a large island. Historically, Cape Cod was a landmark for early explorers, and among the first places in North America to be settled by Europeans.

Captain John Smith noted it on his map of 1614 and at last the Pilgrims entered the "Cape Harbor" and-contrary to the popular myth of Plymouth Rock--made their first landing near present-day Provincetown on November 11, 1620. Nearby, in what is now Eastham, they had their first encounter with Native Americans.

Their population was decimated by diseases carried by Europeans, leaving the survivors more or less helpless in the fight for their land. Development was slow and by the 18th Century, Provincetown was still a group of huts. It didn’t take long for the growing number of settlers to deplete the trees for all their building and daily living. Agriculture was also very difficult due to the burning of undergrowth and the ensuing soil erosion. Cape Cod was mostly bypassed by the industrial revolution due to a significant lack of water power plus its geographical position which in turn lead to its growth as a major fishing and whaling center. Since the 1860’s, thankfully the forests have happily recuperated and by 1950 the Cape was much more forested than in the 1700’s.

Guglielmo Marconi made the first transatlantic wireless transmission from Cape Cod at Wellfleet. He then built upon this success in 1914 by opening the maritime wireless station WCC in Chatham, which had a hand in the communications of Amelia Earhart, Howard Hughes, Admiral Byrd, and the Hindenburg. He chose this site due to

Chatham's vantage point on the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded on three sides by water.

Most of the East-facing Atlantic seacoast of Cape Cod consists of wide, sandy beaches. In 1961, a significant portion of this coastline—already suggested for housing subdivisions—was made a part of the Cape Cod National Seashore by President John F. Kennedy, and is protected from development. Large portions are open to the public, including the "Marconi Site" in Wellfleet, a park built around the site of the first two-way transoceanic radio transmission (by Theodore Roosevelt using Guglielmo Marconi's equipment).

OVERVIEW

Although Cape Cod has a year round population of about 230,000, it experiences a tourist explosion each summer between Memorial Day and Labor Day, as the New England cold gives way to a brief but comfortable summer, this year was a hot one! Some particularly well known Cape products and industries include cranberries, shellfish, especially oysters and clams and lobstering.

Welcome to Nantucket

Provincetown, P-town to the locals, at the tip of Cape Cod, also berths several whale watching fleets who patrol the Stellwagen Bank National Marine Sanctuary. Most fleets guarantee a whale sighting, mostly humpback, finback, and sei whales, and one is the only federally certified operation qualified to rescue whales. Most motels in and around Cape Cod provide coupons that offer discounts on the whale watching trips. Provincetown also developed as a popular gay and lesbian resort from about 1970, attracting gay and lesbian tourists to the various shows, shops, and events held there.

Cape Cod is also very popular for its boating, seafood, ice cream, candy, miniature golf, go-karts, and unique shopping. Bed and breakfasts or vacation houses are numerous, very attractive and popular.

There are numerous working lighthouses on Cape Cod and the Islands, including Nauset Light, Chatham Light, Racepoint and Nobska, some operated by the U.S. Coast Guard, which are frequently photographed emblems of Cape Cod.

Like Cape Cod itself, the islands south of Cape Cod have turned from being whaling and trading areas to resort destinations for the Northeast, attracting old, wealthy families, celebrities, and prosperous tourists alike. The

O islands include Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard, as well as the Elizabeth Island Chain, which includes the Forbes family-owned Naushon Island, which was purchased by John Murray Forbes with profits from opium dealing in the China trade during the Opium War. The only accessible Elizabeth Island is the southernmost one in the chain, Cuttyhunk, with its tiny year-round population of fifty-two people. Several prominent families have established compounds or estates on the larger islands, making these Cape Cod off-shore islands some of the wealthiest resorts in the Northeast, yet they still retain much of the early merchant trading and whaling culture.

Centerville’s Country Store gives both political sides a bench to discuss politics.

At the end of last August, after several kind invitations from our dear friends and neighbours here in Florida, Sue and Bob, we were headed for Cape Cod at last. My first and long-awaited visit. Our first evening, staying in Centerville, was enjoyed with them, catching up, and Neal and Sue cooking salmon on a cedar plank, tasting as good as any restaurant offering!

The next morning started with divine treats, hunted and gathered early by Sue, from nearby Pain d’Avignon French bakery, in Hyannis. Well worth the find and we found that it’s essential to get there very early if you want something enough. The gorgeous goodies are whipped off the shelves as fast as they appear from the ovens!

Bob and Sue then gave us a relaxed guided tour of the middle Cape, imparting local highlights and history. Their love of the Cape was understandable and we were loving it all too. We stopped for lunch in Chatham, which I especially liked, reminding me of some small, English towns. It was a busy attractive place with many art galleries, inviting shops and restaurants. After a great couple of hours there, we continued to the sophisticated, historic ocean-front Chatham Bars Inn, New England’s premier resort and Cape Cod landmark. Herte we soaked up the charming atmosphere before a short drive to watch the fishermen come in with their day’s catch and to be entertained by the boisterous seals.

THE RED PHEASANT INN

The popular Red Pheasant Inn and their Roasted Rack of lamb

Our evening dining was reserved at The Red Pheasant Inn, housed in a 200 year old barn in the historic village of Dennis.

On historic Old King's Highway, the restaurant features original wide-planked wood floors, exposed beams and two fireplaces. Victorian brass light fixtures and candlelight illuminate an intimate dining room set with white linen, fresh flowers, hand-blown glassware and locally produced pottery. Attention to detail is evident in the presentation of each dish created by Chef/Owner Bill Atwood Jr.

The restaurant was launched in 1977 by Bill's father, Bill Atwood, who brought years of experience as a restaurateur in New Jersey and New York to his life on the Cape. He was soon joined by Bill Jr. and then Bill's wife, Denise. Building on Bill Sr.'s legacy the couple continue to make improvements and innovations to the restaurant, maintaining the standard of excellence that has been its hallmark for 30 years.

Over the winter of 2004 the family made some improvements and renovations such as adding a martini and wine bar. Small tables offer a lighter fare menu, great for a cozy supper, glass of wine or cocktail by the fireplace. This place really reminded me of Euphemia Haye on Longboat Key, similar size, ambience and long history.

Our evening began with delectable Gougere, a very nice touch instead of the ubiquitous bread basket. We were seated in the Garden Dining Room, one of the three dining areas, overlooking the pleasant flora. Three of us opted for the house New England Cherrystone and Scallop chowder and Neal the delicate Organic Salmon Gravlox, all delicious.

Sue ordered ‘Togarashi,’ Japanese chili, Crusted Day Scallops, Neal chose the Sole Meuniere, being a duck-lover I had the signature Roast Boneless Long Island Duckling and Bob the Roast Rack of Lamb. These were excellent with fresh vegetables and thoughtful accompaniments, all prepared and presented beautifully.

We shared the fabulous chocolate based dessert platter, exquisitely designed. No wonder this family is in its 30th season satisfying the locals and tourists alike! Give them a call to book ahead as they are always busy and open all year!

A Our next morning was shattered by very sad news of our dear friend Bev Bennett loosing her long fight with cancer, so our plans were to be cut short.

Truro Vineyards

Bob and Sue were off to a party out-of-town so we tried to make the most of the next two days on the Cape, between changing flights and all that good stuff! We had an enjoyable drive to Provincetown along the fairly quiet route 6A and we discovered some lovely places en route. One being the Cape Cod Lighthouse and Race Point Lookout, with a great three storey view overlooking the marshes and dunes to the Ocean. There is a very interesting museum here also, showing fossils and local, plus historic information.We found Truro Vineyard a very nice stop along the way, in North Truro. As Cape Cod’s first vinifera grape vineyard, they pioneered the art of maritime grape growing on this temperate peninsula. Cape Cod’s warm ocean breezes, well-drained sandy soils and extended growing season combine to produce grapes with intense flavor and lush varietal character.

Truro Vineyards opens its doors each season, from April to December. The tasting room and gift shop are housed within a carefully restored 1830’s farmhouse. During the summer, wine tastings are held outdoors under their tasting tent near the vineyard. In addition, guided tours of the vineyard and winery are offered in season. Call for their tour schedule.

They invite you to stop by and experience the fine wines, stroll through the vineyards and picnic on their beautiful grounds. Browse through the very nice gift shop and discover an interesting assortment of wine accessories and gift ideas.

A promenade in P’Town is a must

P’TOWN!

A Provincetown pooch patiently waits

Provincetown was buzzing on this gorgeous cool and sunny late summer day. This is a very pretty seaside town on the northernmost tip of Cape Cod, with a plethora of quaint and gorgeous cottages offering B&B’s or for rental. It’s a very lovely place to spend some time, with everything from the history, great old book shops, jewelers, galleries, cafes, clubs and restaurants to the inevitable tourist traps.

P’town was incorporated in 1727, but its history begins much earlier since its well protected harbor offered excellent protection from storms. The European explorer Gosnold recorded a stop in Provincetown as early as 1602 and the harbor was the site of the first landing of the Mayflower. The Pilgrims signed the Mayflower compact in the harbor, to codify the way in which they were going to administer the new colony they intended to establish.

This was a bustling place with all of the off-shoot maritime businesses operating, such as ship chandlers, shipwrights, sail makers, caulkers, riggers and blacksmiths. The picturesque setting and salt air also began attracting artists and writers by the end of the 19th century.

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Pilgrim Monument in Provincetown

Gale of 1898 swept away half of the town's wharves, the resort population of the town provided jobs to take the O When the fishing industry faltered from competition with cheaper Nova Scotia cod, and the Portland place of those lost from fishing. In the 1920's the artistic and literary productions of the town were of international repute and the abandoned sites of maritime businesses became the new homes of the seasonal visitor as sail lofts, warehouses and barns became studios, galleries and shops. Today, the wealth of preserved historic buildings combines with the lure of the sea and all its complementary activities to support a huge tourist and summer home industry.

The Pilgrim Monument and Provincetown Museum, you can’t miss it towering above the town, is also a must-see and we spent a couple of hours exploring there and learning more about the area’s history and charm.

On Sue’s reliable recommendation we very much enjoyed a casual late meal at Ardeo, later back in Hyannis. They have an excellent no nonsense, delicious and affordable menu and have been catering to Cape Cod for 25 years. Describing themselves as a Mediterranean Taverna, they offer delicious Greek and Middle Eastern as well as American dishes.

We only just made it for a you-know- what treat to finish the day at the famous and beloved Four Seas Ice Creamery in Centerville, a landmark here since 1960. After churning out over 2500 gallons PER WEEK...that’s a lot of ice cream, owner Dick Warren, who also resides in Sarasota, has written a book with Bobbi Dempsey, The Complete Idiots Guide to Homemade Ice Cream with over 200 recipes and step-by-step instructions. Well I think I’ll just let Dick and his terrific staff of students do what they do best and make it for us! This is a classic ice cream shop on the Cape.

A step back in time at the Sconset Market on Nantucket

NANTUCKET

As we had this boat trip to Nantucket arranged we decided to go ahead and make the most of the day. From its beginning in 1962 with one boat and three employees, Hyannis Harbor Tours, Inc. d/b/a Hy-LLine Cruises has grown to about 350 employees with about 100 of those being year-round employees. This message from Richard M. Scudder, still President of Hy-line Cruises that carried us over to Nantucket:

Andrea of Nantucket Red Tours – the best!

It is my pleasure to introduce you to Hy-Line Cruises. We are a Cape Cod family-owned and operated cruise company with over 35 years in the cruise business. Now, just as when we began, our primary concern is in providing the best service-oriented cruise experience possible. We instill in all of our employees the Company’s philosophy of customer service being our #1 priority. We are glad you’ve decided to spend a part of your vacation with us on the Cape, and I, along with the whole crew at Hy-Line, look forward to serving you. Enjoy your cruise!

This philosophy was definitely upheld and the staff were friendly and helpful. Being extremely busy and fully booked, do make sure you plan ahead and reserve your crossing to Nantucket or Martha’s Vineyard. We were booked on the 9am ferry, having wanted to go via the high speed ferry but it was full, so we sat back and relaxed for the two hour, each way, trip. The high speed taking half that time.

We were lucky enough to be included in a semi-private tour by Nantucket Red Tours, our driver and guide Andrea was great, but filling in for the usual Ed. A fount of local knowledge she imparted made it very worthwhile. You can join the tours very easily right as you disembark from the ferry, just along Main Street on the corner of Easy Street! Well worth the money and time for a great overview of the island.

The gorgeous homes, mostly tiny, were very attractive and painted in a narrow range of permitted colours. We saw some much bigger ‘cottages’ belonging to the likes of the Johnson and Johnson, Hilfiger, Jack Welch, Folger, The Gap, John Kerry and the Heinz family and the old Steinbeck family summer homes as well as interesting to see the famous Kennedy compound leaving and coming back to Hyannis from a watery distance.

1686 dates the oldest home on its original site. Interesting to learn of the ‘Landbank’, which collects 2 percent when a property sells, this is then used to help preserve the land so that no more is developed. Nearly 40 percent of Nantucket is protected conservation land. The year round population is around 10,000 today. Originally a booming whaling port, Nantucket has been named a National Historic District and has architecturally changed little since the 17th century, and seaside cottages and old-fashioned lamps still line its streets. Inland on this “elbow of sand" are wild moors and in several areas and habitats, natural groups of plants and animals, are rare to this region and even the world.

The wide sandy beaches, sparkling waters of Nantucket Sound to the north, or the mighty Atlantic along the island’s south shore are all here to be experienced. “Let the pounding surf, and clean, salty air restore you. ”
Boutiques, shops, art galleries and museums beckon all who visit. One must-see is the fabulously redesigned Whaling Museum.

Nantucket's charming buildings

“The mission of the Nantucket Historical Association is to preserve and interpret the history of Nantucket Island in order to inspire island residents, both year-round and seasonal, to shape the island's future with a greater appreciation and respect for their shared heritage, and to foster among all Nantucket residents and visitors a deeper appreciation of the important historical role that the island's people have played in national and world history.” Renovations completed after two years, the doors opened again last June and the 1847 Candle Factory was also restored. The place is fascinating and the focal point is the magnificent skeleton of a 46 ft. sperm whale! The whaling history is very laid out and illustrated and very child-friendly. Much time and effort continues to be poured into making this a very special place in which to visit, learn and spend time. Congratulations to the Nantucket Historic Association, friendly and knowledgeable Judith Wodynski, External Relations Director and her staff for nurturing such a delightful and important resource. To learn more visit NHA.ORG

After a lovely lunch in the courtyard of Even Keel, on Main Street and some more wandering, shopping and soaking up the maritime bustle we headed back to board our ferry for another pleasant sail back to Hyannis at 4pm.

NAKED OYSTER BISTRO AND RAW BAR

Getting busy at the Naked Oyster is Chef Sean McEach and the Seafood Tower

Our brief but excellent time on Cape Cod was to be topped by a terrific evening at the Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar, Hyannis, off Route 132. The rather hard-to-find location, on a corner of a shopping plaza, belies this place’s reputation. Specializing in fresh seafood, the Naked Oyster Bistro & Raw Bar brings a chic, urban, but casual contribution to Hyannis.

David Kelley, executive chef, knows many of the local fishermen and shellfishermen, and has teamed up with them to bring their products directly from the sea to his kitchen. He adjusts his specials menu weekly to reflect seasonal changes not only in produce and fish, but also in meats and fowl. Local food suppliers are preferred whenever possible. They include Cape Cod Organics in Barnstable and Great Hills Dairy in Marion.

The large mahogany bar, crafted in New England, provides a focal point for the bistro. The light fixtures around the bar are the work of a local artist who made the glass shades into a shapes of sea life. The music is soft jazz and the atmosphere is great.

Naked Oyster's magnificent Grilled Filet Mignon and Foie Gras

Owners Florence, born in Bordeaux and neurosurgeon husband, David Lowell, (yes when do they ever see each other?!), certainly know what they are doing to bring this place to life and keep it buzzing year round. Florence greeted us warmly and the staff continued the standard throughout the very busy Friday evening on Labor Day weekend! Very few restaurants would consider hosting us for an article on such a night, a testament to their love of the job and professionalism.

The dinner menu excellent and difficult to decide from all the offerings, including many oyster dishes mai oui, changes every two weeks. Our appetiser tastes were the very special Seafood Tower, inventive and delicious, the Barbequed Bleu Oysters stuffed with Great Hill Bleu Cheese, caramelized onions, barbeque sauce and topped with bacon, not for the purists but rich and gorgeous.

We soaked up the fun atmosphere as we digested for the next course and the unflappable Frank took good care of us. The excellent Florence even made time to come and join us for a chat at one point.

Our main plate tasting included the perfectly caramelized Sea Scallops with Garlic jus and Wild Mushroom Raviolis, fantastic, and the Grilled Filet Mignon and Foie Gras, a divine blend and prepared just as I asked...such a rare thing these days! We also tasted the Roast Rack of Pork, a more unusual dish to see, superb and generous, a two bone chop cut from a roasted rack of pork, with a Cabernet wine sauce, Gold Bud nectarine and plum relish with Yukon mashed potatoes and grilled asparagus! Giddy up!

We even squeezed in a taste of the sumptuous Chocolate Mousse and the Tahitian Vanilla Bean Creme Brulee. With a comprehensive and balanced wine list, after dinner martinis, liqueurs, a great menu and service, this is how a restaurant should be run! A Great Find in Cape Cod.

My first visit to Cape Cod won’t be my last. I loved the character and charm of the homes, shops, friendly people and the historical significance of the area enjoyed by many over the years.