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Our flight from St. Pete to Midway Airport was uneventful, thankfully. With light luggage we wanted to try the train to downtown Chicago instead of a taxi. We were not disappointed. The first local lady we encountered worked for the Chicago Transit Authority and asked us if we wanted help! After finding that we needed exact change (only $1.50 each), and fumbling to find it, this lady so pleasant already, proceeded to clear us through the gate on her own pass! What a great start. Such a small gesture but one that went a long way and one we wont forget. After this short train ride to the Loop, we descended to the street expecting then to get a cab. On looking around to get our bearings we were amused to see our much anticipated W Hotel-City Center only a few yards away on West Adams Street. Greeted by a very stylish doorman we entered and checked-in. If you dont know about the new W Hotel chain launched in 1998, do visit one in your next city stay. The W concept is refreshing, hip, unique, glamorous and tech savvy. Read HOT.
Luxury with a twist! The soaring lobby was dark, rich and inviting. With the onset of dusk... and happy hour, many candles were lit and a DJ kicked it up a notch spinning from the balcony above. Whiskey Blue is the new hot bar there drawing crowds nightly.
As always making the most of our time, and due to the chill and wind, we braved the vast Merchandise Mart for a couple of hours. This downtown landmark is home to hundreds of to-the-trade interior design, furniture and fitting stores and one floor of retail also. I cant say that Neal was ecstatic to be there, but to my amazement sank himself into the spirit of the place and bought a leather jacket in the first store! Towards the end of the day was a great time to go, to facilitate a brief and rapid overview of the huge place. Being an artist in the design side of business, I was very pleased to see the wares of many famous names of which I had heard. The day was winding down and it was not crowded, which meant we very much enjoyed our time there. We were glad to return to the warmth and cosiness of the hotel and prepare for our evening meal within, at We Restaurant and Bar. Attentive General Manager John Nichols, night manager Dawn Kanyuh and server Eric took care of us grandly. The tiny Amuse Bouche that Executive Chef Frank Mendoza sent out, was a Candied Pecan wrapped in Grilled Eggplant, Swiss cheese and Prosciutto. A delicious taste of things to come. Our small plates comprised a Sweet Corn Soup with Peekytoe Crab Strudel and Wild Mushrooms wrapped in Crispy Potatoes in a balsamic foam, with Foie Gras. This in deep fall colours and gorgeous dark flavours was divine. The main course menu was fascinating in that there were three ategories to choose from; Greens, Water and Land. With about fifteen choices in each tier it was a great idea. The fare was described as progressive French Cafe with casual American and fun influences. Our own creative choices were encouraged.
After a browse in the retail shop in the lively lobby area, we again took our seats for a trio of amazing sugar free sorbets housed in a fabulous free form sugar dish, yes edible, and a wonderful art form. This accompanied by a perfect Ici/La Bas dessert Ice wine.
The W Hotel also offers a brand retail outlet stocking unusual, luxury and fun items. Situated very near the Chicago Stock Exchange and the Sears Tower, the hotel was a great vantage point from which to explore the city.
The following morning found us in a terrific, nearby chain for breakfast, Au Bon Pain. This set us up for a City Tour, and visit to the very worthwhile Field Museum, home of actual dinosaur skeleton, Sue. An amazing sight, and well worth seeing amongst the plethora of natural wonders there too. Nearby is the fascinating Shedd Aquarium with yet more wonders, including a huge sea life tank with regular feeding times by a scuba diver ready to answer questions, from under the water. After much walking we were ready for an evening with good friends from Florida who live in Chicago some months, the Trottas. They took us to one of their favourite Italian restaurants, Coco Pazzo, and we could see why it was. Packed on a Tuesday evening, the crowds were a testament to the great food. We were up early the next morning, ready to be collected again by our friends, to go to the Oprah Show. They had been kind enough to help us get tickets, a very difficult task without help! I was very excited as this was to fulfill a long time wish of mine. After much security we obtained a great seat. After September 11th many shows had been canceled and our attendance was very tenuous. As it was, the shows atmosphere was naturally very subdued, nothing like we had seen on television prior.
The show was about thinking women and how we should go on after the disasters. Apart from the fact that the men were asked to sit towards the back, it was great to be part of such an interesting event. Many well known and revered women appeared by satellite to voice their opinions and to answer Oprahs questions. I soaked up every second and at the end, much to my joy, Oprah held my hand. Just to top the day, the Trottas took us to their very exclusive East Bank Club for brunch. Having calmed down a little, we were then ready to locate the most excellent, Chicago From The Lake company, operating from the North Pier Docks at River East Plaza. Here we boarded the Marquette for a most interesting Architectural River Cruise. The weather was sunny and glorious-which certainly helped! Our guide, the venerable Pat Kelly, was an amazing, and very fluent, fount of knowledge. With insight into the history and famous landmarks, we were better able to understand Chicagos foundations. (No pun intended!) We quietly drifted by such awesome buildings as the Tribune Tower, built 1925, the Merchandise Mart, 1929, the Sears Tower, 1974 and the NBC Tower, 1989 to name but a few. An excellent two hours, well worth it.
The Tremont is a smaller boutique type of hotel with a strong European ambiance, well English, I thought. Each of the 129 guest rooms and suites had been renovated with traditional appointments. All rooms have armoires which house mini-bars TVs, video and CD players. The Tremont House, next door, has eleven newly renovated, fully furnished suites with kitchens, for long-term stays. Our dinner that night was reserved at NoMI. We were delighted to find it located very near to The Tremont. As darkness fell, temperatures freshened considerably, and we were grateful for the proximity! Lovely Frenchman, Emmanuel Nony, Executive Assistant Manager, greeted us with caring friendliness yet ultra professionalism. NoMI was terrific. Open one and a half years, the confident air of sleek, sophistication smoked. Just the right amount of fuss and attention made us feel comfortable yet pampered. Excellent Chef de Cuisine, Sandro Gamba, formerly of Lespinasse, Washington D.C. (cover, Food&Wine July 2001-Americas Best Chefs 2001), creates French Cuisine with simplicity, authenticity and a hint of Asian influence.
Nestled on the 7th floor of the Park Hyatt Chicago, NoMI has great views of Lake Michigan and the Magnificent Mile. The cuisine earned Gamba a nomination as the James Beard Rising Star 1999. The adjoining 3000 bottle Wine Room encompasses more than 350 labels with emphasis on selections from France. Our tastes of the evening commenced with a choice from the cold and hot appetizer menu. We shared the Chefs mouth-watering Truffle Risotto, need I say more, and the amazing Cassoulet of Baby Vegetables. Exquisitely prepared, I counted 11, ultra-fresh baby vegetables caramelized in a warm balsamic vinaigrette served with sautéed pine nuts. So simple, yet such complex flavours. We were enjoying a very nice Chateauneuf-du-Pape with this.
Award-winning Pastry Chef, Brian Schoenbeck, did a fine job of putting the icing on the cake! The Poached Pear in Brioche with Ginger Pear Chutney and Spiced Ice Cream, was just like Christmas, unwrapping a lovely gift. The fine pastry wrapping the red-wine poached pear, oozing with a brie center. Fabulous with the Sauterne. The new dessert from Chef was the Vanilla Roasted Pineapple with Coconut Sorbet and Pineapple Chip. This was far more delicious than it sounded to me! Petit Fours comprised tiny acorns of Madeleines and Baby Tuile. Perfect. The roof top patio is also perfect for dining when weather permits, and there are several smaller dining rooms. Along with the high ceilings, spare, modern and very tailored interior, the cuisine really equaled the fabulous location. Thanks to all at NoMi, we cant wait to come back. After a leisurely start the next day we just had to go shopping!
We then had a long trek to find Trotters To Go (under the ownership of famed Chef Charlie Trotter). We were expecting a much grander place but enjoyed shopping and buying lunch to-go. Thankful for the exercise we were ready to enjoy a dining experience at the much heralded restaurant, TRU.
From the moment of entering TRU, we knew we were in for a treat. The entry and cloakroom reeked of the style to follow. Rick Tramonto, Executive Chef and partner, Pastry and TV Food Networks Sweet Dreams Chef Gail Gand, have blended uncommon talents to create this dining and art experience called TRU. Both authors, To be Amused, by Rick and Gails very popular book, Just a Bite, these are very busy people! The name TRU is compounded from the two first letters of Tramontos name and U from unlimited. The whole concept at TRU epitomizes unlimited thinking. Anyway we had the good fortune to share in the fruits of their labour on this night. We were also treated to a tour of the kitchens with G.M., Adam Seger. The quietist and cleanest we had ever been into. A very slick operation. As well as the main dining area there are two private dining rooms and sought after table for 4 to 6 in the kitchen.
The menus comprised a Prix Fixe with three courses and Four Collections; Chef Tramontos, Autumn, Grand and Vegetable to select from. A veritable feast for anyone! Extreme pampering and attentiveness was the order of service and the surrounding impressive and extensive art collection, with originals from the likes of Warhol and Mapplethorpe, Peter Halley and Yves Klein, continued to awe. The very high ceilings in this huge square room, with white walls and stunningly contrasting deep blue plush velvet upholstery and slate grey carpet gave this area a very fine air. There were even tiny velvet stools on which to place our handbags.
One appetizer from the Prix Fixe menu was a Bento Box of Seasonal Vegetable Terrine and one of the Chefs surprises was the Fish and Chips. No, not your ordinary, in fact about as far away as you could get! Delightful. Tuna carpaccio served on the most delicious, fine, housemade chips served in a caviar server with a live Beta fish swimming in the bowl beneath! How cool was that idea.
Another awesome course we shared was Tramontos Caviar Staircase. Presented on a flight of five thick glass stairs, created by the owners and commissioned especially for this dish, the platter was as spectacular as the caviar! The army of wait staff and battalion of chefs created the most incredible performance for us all to remember. The food was served in unison by as many waiters as it took and was cleared in the same way. No detail was neglected. Another unforgettable dish was the soup; Insane Truffle, Lobster Lobster Bisque or Roasted Garlic, served in, yes, no less than a Versace cup and saucer. Ooo! groans of envy. We noticed one older gentleman buy one for his girl...friend! Euw! The Sautéed Hudson Valley Foie Gras was fabulous as was the Duet of Seared YellowFin Tuna and Hamachi and the taste of the Roasted Beef Tenderloin with Truffle Potato Purée and Bone Marrow Foam. Have you booked your flight to Chicago yet? The evening was topped by tastes of Gails delectable dessert menu, Sweet Dreams. Such as the Lemon Strawberry Souffle, the Not Your Usual Raspberry-Rhubarb Pie and her Truffles.
How spoiled and decadent we felt, and not a little guilty after all the sad recent events. This was another evening never-to-be-forgotten. Many thanks to Chef Owners Rick Tramonto and Gail Gand for all their TLC in the creation of TRU. Needless to say we had to walk back to the hotel. Rather a long way, but imperative! Our return to Florida was imminent. Thanks Chicago, we loved you even more, with your museums, art, theatre, music, lake, shoreline, restaurants, shops, wonderful architecture, friendliness and life. We are looking forward to our next visit. Pics by N. Finelli CONTACTS: W Hotels The Tremont NoMI Park Hyatt Chicago TRU Chicago from the Lake
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