ourgogne (Burgundy) wine region...five different areas... five different, wonderful characters. This heart of France comprises Chablis, the most northerly, an hour from Paris, Cote de Nuits, Cote de Beaune, Cote Chalonnaise to Maconnais, the most southerly and largest wine growing area.

Chablis, covering about 4,000 hectares (one hectare equals about two-and-a-half acres), enjoys a world wide reputation dating back centuries and much deserved for its elegant, dry white wines. Some of my favourites. The grape grown here is Chardonnay, yielding a variety of wines grouped into four categories of Chablis.

The prestige of the great Cote de Nuits wines has earned it the title of the “Champs-Elysées” of Burgundy. Photo by Art Fox

The prestige of the great Cote de Nuits wines has earned it the title of the “Champs-Elysées” of Burgundy. The vineyards, over 3,000 hectares, stretch in a narrow east-facing band of gold and purple along the hillsides. The “clos,” walled vineyards, date back to the 10th century abbeys. The monks in this whole area of very religious pilgrimage and worship, were responsible for the early growth and experimentation with the wines of this region. They began much of the traditional lore concerning “terroir,” the native soil where the wine derives its special character.

Burgundy’s wine capital, the Beaune vicinity, grows 5,000 hectares of vineyards, which blanket the gentle hills. The diverse terroir and high quality production gives rise to thoroughbred reds, rich and complex whites, with names like Mersault and Montrachet enjoyed by wine lovers all over the world. Its “Route des Vins” also covers 650 hectares of Hautes-Cotes de Beaune, which have earned a high reputation for both red and white burgundies.

The Cote Chalonnaise is geographical extension of the Cote de Beaune, producing great wines from 4,000 hectares, mostly from the two main grapes of Burgundy, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Maconnais is the largest district, with 6,500 hectares. The southerly aspect and softness of the area between Tournus and the edges of Beaujolais yields great  white wines. Fresh, softly fruited and subtle dry flavours with names like, Pouilly-Fuissé (my life-long favourite white), Macon-Villages and Saint Véran. The Maconnais reds come from the Gamay grape, known by their deep red colour with a hint of violet.

SOUTHERN BURGUNDY

During a few weeks stay over in England, we had planned a side-trip to Burgundy and on July 3 we flew from London to Geneva, which took only just over an hour. We had taken advantage of those fantastic bargain European flights, this time on Easyjet.

With French and Swiss sides to Geneva airport, picking up rental cars, and dropping off, was a lot more complicated than usual! Please be warned. If you go wrong you risk being on a Swiss highway and paying  a $50 toll! Thankfully, John Barling, an English friend of ours who owns a property in Beaune was an old-hand at this and helped us immensely with detailed instructions! We collected our Europcar, rental which was within the airport,with help from the pleasant staff.  Our car was a very nice and responsive Citroen, which was diesel. A little daunting to begin with, but we learned that it was a blessing in disguise in that it was very economical. Many of you must know how lucky we are here in the USA, as gas in Europe is at least four times as expensive as ours.

Following maps and careful directions we headed west for Macon and then the tiny village of Romaneche-Thorins, for our first night’s stay.

LES MARITONNES

The country hotel, Les Maritonnes comprised of 20 rooms. Dutch Owners, Willemina and Hans Meijboom were very pleasant and welcomed us. They are members of  the well-known “Chateaux and Hotels of France.”

Les Maritones is a relaxing country hotel with a fabulous restaurant

The 100 year old farm was a pretty and very peaceful setting. A recent shower had freshened and sharpened the beautiful range of greens in the gardens, with towering firs and trees surrounding a large inviting pool. The leafy, shaded paths beckoned and enabled a welcome stretch before dinner. This place is a wonderful base from which to discover the Wine Trail and region.

The dining room was beautifully appointed, elegant with fresh white linens, quality silverware and sparkling glassware, yet the atmosphere was relaxed. Perfect. With three menus offered, Gourmand, Terroir and Degustation we were spoiled for choice! Chef’s amuse bouche was an exquisite, tiny mussel in a citrus mousse, along with the fine house-made breads and the delicious local Saint-Véran, Les Terres Noires ­ we were having fun! Our excellent starter tastings were the Ravioli of Frogs Legs, the filling being the principal...not the pasta, and the Duck Fillet with foie gras served cold with salad and wild mushrooms.

Then the  refreshing mouthful of Vodka mandarin granité served in a “tastevin” was delightful. This was followed by some delicious salmon and scallops wrapped in bacon with morels. This was presented with some unique lettuce, dipped in albumen and baked stiff! Different and imaginative. The cheese cart was as usual in France, fantastic, and we sampled three local goat from the Maconnais and Dura regions, one coated with shaved raisin seeds and paired with three port tastings! We were definitely having fun! To finish we had a tiny delectable strawberry custard.

The rooms here were pretty simple but the food and surroundings were excellent.

After some delicious coffee and a light breakfast the next morning we drove the extremely short distance to the town station situated opposite the winery and “Le Hameau en Beaujolais.”

GEORGES DUBOEUF WINERY

The French Tourist Board of this Burgundy region, with the liaison of Martine Gerard in New York and Catherine Jouffroy in Burgundy, were very helpful and generous in helping us organise this trip. When I saw that we had a meeting with Georges Duboeuf himself, (dubbed “the king of Beaujolais” by Wine Spectator) and his family, I was surprised and very delighted. I have known his wines for years, much supplied in England, as well as here. He is very well-known for his Beaujolais Nouveau, distributed worldwide every November.

The personable Duboeuf family includes son Franc and Georges (flanking Taste publisher Neal Finelli) and daughter-in-law Anne, showing the new vinification centre Coté Vigne is a delightful property­so tranquil and well-appointed.

Firstly we met with his daughter-in-law Anne, who was lovely. She took us on a tour of the “Hamlet,” (Hameau). The promotional concept comprised a group of buildings in the Roman style, surrounding the old station, that houses a journey through historical culture of the wines as well as the tasting of it. It’s imaginative, entertaining, fun and informative for anyone who loves wine, art and history and was opened in 1993. The tour lasts about an hour and a half culminating in a tasting room, bistrot and a wonderful gift shop. It’s the only wine museum of its kind in France and, unusual in that is open to the public. The fun museum was full of great artifacts and antique presses, barrels and old equipment that made us wonder how they ever maintained and harvested the grape.

We then went up to the brand new vinification center and were excited that we were the first press to see it. (Their press tour and release was due the next day, when we were headed north, we were very lucky to be accommodated). Here we met Georges and his son Franc, who showed us up to the fourth floor for some 360º views of the surrounding vineyards of their Beaujolais, Beaujolais Villages, and Fleurie, the most robust flavour coming in the “Moulin a Vent” wine.

Our light lunch was of local pates and cheeses and of course some Georges Duboeuf wines at the Beaujolais Bistrot. This was a great experience seeing where these world famous wines derived, as well as meeting the Duboeuf family.

En route to our next B&B we were invited to discover the Chateau Pierreclos with 12th Century cellars, still not far from Macon. We met with Christiane Charpentier-Schalburg our tour guide who was great fun. We even enjoyed a coffee and chat as well as learning the history and landmarks of the area. Pierreclos, located atop a hill originally for good defense, was home to the Pidault family, five generations of winemakers.  We then visited the childhood home of Alphonse de Lamartine (1790-1869), a much revered poet and statesman of the region.

COTE VIGNE

It was then time to make our way north and find the tiny village of Domange, next to Igé, nestled among the vineyard covered countryside. It was a quiet 18th Century village built in soft shades of gold. We found our wonderful B&B, this title belies the magnificence of this place, Coté Vigne, (side of the vineyard), tucked away in a narrow street with a gated entry. As we got out of the car we could hear such serene and comforting sounds as sheep bleating and the nearby church bell chiming.

Coté Vigne owner Mark Diserens

Owner Mark Diserens came out with his two gorgeous Weimaraners to welcome and show us around. This old farmhouse was built in 1804 on top of some splendid, huge vaulted cellars. Now used for cars and storage they have much potential. The main house has five huge guest rooms all with very good quality bathrooms en suite. There is a summer and winter living room, one inside and one out. Owner Mark, friends and staff have put endless TLC into renovating this special and friendly B&B. Packed with fabulous antiques, books and collections this is truly a home. Open all year and at very reasonable rates, we loved this place.

Before setting off for dinner we enjoyed a glass or two of some local sparkling wine, Verzé, with Mark in his own wine cellar below. Can’t beat that. The soft, cool, dampness and musty smells of the earth, happily reminded me so much of my grandfather’s cellar when I was young.

I donned some walking shoes and carried some heels and we set off for a country walk to the beautiful 13th century Chateau D’Igé about a mile away, for dinner. What a great find this was to be also. A small picturesque ivy covered chateau in another tiny old village set the scene for a fabulous evening.

CHATEAU d'IGE

The picturesque Chateau d'Igé offers fine lodging and food including a superb cheese board and asparagus topped with truffles and egg.

Twenty five years ago the Chateau was totally restored by Henry Jadot after many years of abandonment, and converted into a luxurious hotel. Now owned and operated by the very congenial and expert hotelier Françoise Lieury Germond it holds 11 guest rooms/apartments, still very reasonable, and is surrounded by beautiful flowering gardens and a burbling stream and ponds. The TGV, high speed train from Paris takes only two hours to get to nearby Montchanin and the Chateau is a member of  “Relais and Chateaux.”

The small dining rooms were very grand nevertheless, with thick stone walls and jewel tone regal velvet drapes and upholstery. The staff were very friendly and most informative ­ professional yet relaxed.

Wow! It was July 4th so a celebration was in order. The service was terrific, with Christin, Sommelier Emmanuel Albert and head waiter Laurent Simonnet taking excellent care of us. Starting with the white wine La Cra, Macon Chardonnay and opening the red, Macon Cruzille, Alain Juillot 2001, we were off to a great start.

Our amuse bouche this time was a very tasty merlot gazpacho. Chef de Cuisine, Olivier Pons, with his impressive history was creating some magic for us. Our first dishes were the exquisitely prepared tiny summer vegetables in an amazing wafer-thin rice batter basket with Parmesan shavings and the duo of asparagus, truffles with a local farm (orange yolk) egg presented on a mirror! Divine.

Again with a few different menu presentations we were able to pick and choose to our hearts desire. Our main courses, the delicate and delicious Filet of Sandre, pike/perch, with shallot confit and a sweet potato puree with a beurre blanc and the Guinea Fowl  with a gingerbread and tiny browned vegetables. Everything was so fresh and from local producers and farms.

The cheese chariot was amazing and overflowing with 30 aromatic delights of which we sampled a few. The we tasted the fabulous warm chocolate pudding, chocolate sorbet and wafers. Well it was July 4th! The almond and ginger tuile petit fours came with a dessert Chardonnay cuvée de la St. Martin. What a meal, what a place. We didn’t want to leave.

However the walk back to our B&B in the pitch black and silent night, helped to digest. Very comfortable accommodations followed including a light down quilt.

After a lovely light fruity breakfast with Mark and Oliver we walked to local winemaker Olivier Fichet for a pleasant wine tasting in his cellar (left). We said our regretful farewells and headed for Macon market. It wasn’t as big or interesting as we had hoped, but it was all we had time for. We then returned to the road for Cluny and northwest onto Montchanin. We were scheduled to meet a coach to take us on our next leg of the week, three days on the Canal du Centre, courtesy Continental de Croisieres.

CANAL du CENTRE

The TGV from Paris was bringing a small group of Americans, who had spent the night in Paris following their various flights from the USA, for their leisurely cruise aboard the Lafayette from Paray-le Monial in southern Burgundy, to Chagny in the region’s north. We met together with coach driver/guide and second in command for the trip, John Cherry (le bon). John drove us south to board the barge for the Saturday evening dinner and our first night. We were very much looking forward to this first barging experience and it exceeded all expectations.

"Just squeezing through"- One of the many narrow locks traversed aboard the Lafayette

The 280 ton Lafayette, 130 feet long and 15 feet wide with a draught of 6.5 feet, had a tight squeeze into some of the 135x16 locks. The 18th century canal was a much needed link then between the major rivers Loire and Saone, for commercial transport mostly the steel and coal industry. With the gradual decline of coal power, the roads improving and more rail transport, the 52 mile, 46 lock canal also went into decline.

However the local governments are now encouraging more commercial use again as 15 times more freight can be moved in one go compared to road or rail. Plus it’s much more environmentally friendly. The Lafayette was built in 1958 and used commercially all over Europe. In 1982 it was sold to Continental Waterways and outfitted in Strasbourg for guest use In Burgundy. The logo is a chef chasing a snail, the latter the symbol of Burgundy.

Our barge housed a maximum of 22 guests and about 9 full time staff, who were all English, very competent, friendly and professional. Of course language wasn’t a problem either! There were only 13 in our group at this time so the staff could be a little more relaxed and had time to chat and answer our questions.

A charming place setting aboard the Lafayette.   Photo by Kelly Webb

We were all welcomed on board by the staff lined up in their uniforms to greet us, headed by Karen Cherry (le boss) and were all handed a glass of Champagne. Good start! We were shown to our rooms, the young male staff delivering our luggage, and although the accommodations were some----what cramped, everything was designed with every inch counting. The tiny adjoining bathroom was all we needed. I did not hear any complaints from fellow passengers either, most of whom were seasoned bargees, unlike us “virgin bargees!”

There was then time before dinner for a walk around the town and to see the 12th Century Romanesque architecture and Basilica. This was beautifully lit as darkness fell.

When we returned to the barge the cosy wood-panelled dining room was set for dinner. The tiny bar was “open” all day and if staff weren’t around you could even help yourself! The champagne flowed and we met with the rest of the guests, from all over the US.

Due to limited space we will share one menu with you. I have the whole week’s menus if anyone wants to call for a copy. The French chef Bevoit (le chef), on board was terrific and every lunch and dinner included a cheese course, three from the region and a red and white, mostly Burgundy, wines with some information on them from the staff, which was great.

One of our dinner menus:

Petit pate de foie gras with trompettes mushrooms
~
Leg of lamb marinated Provence style with a tian of vegetables
~
Salad with 3 fromage, Tomme de Savoie, Bleu D’Auvergne
and Brillat Savarin
~
Poached pear in creme Anglais with essence of mint
~
Wines: Mersault and  Medoc

Superb, but good job we were only on board for three days!

As the evening progressed people became more friendly and after dinner we took our drinks and coffees out onto the deck to enjoy the quiet, balmy night.

At 8AM sharp every morning the engines would start, (couldn’t miss those) and we would cast off through the first lock of the day. If still below deck, we could touch the lock walls an inch from our tiny windows, we were that close.

Breakfast was self serve from a delicious buffet of cereal, fruits, nuts, cold cuts and eggs with very good unlimited coffee. Again we could take our plate out onto the deck or stay inside. It was very relaxed.

This, and the weather, was wonderful. We quietly and slowly cruised through green meadows of the famous Charolais, (the beautiful white cattle), not much more than three miles an hour. Enough to make progress and enough to really relax and do whatever. Some would read in a quiet corner, others would chat together or follow the canal charts. (No TV, great!) There were bicycles for everyone and with notice to the staff, we could get off and cycle the tow paths or just walk as far as we liked, getting back on board at the next few locks. We loved this! Plus no packing and unpacking.

Expert chocolatier, Bernard Dufoux entices with his delicious chocolates

We passed several small villages, some with friendly waves along the way, and up a number of locks before mooring for the afternoon and night at the large village of Génelard. After a wonderful lunch John drove us by the same coach that he followed the barge in each day, for an excursion to the small town of La Clayette. We went to the expert chocolatier, Bernard Dufoux’s workshop and store, where we watched his skills, and sampled the same. After buying some delectable souvenirs we walked a short distance to the 17th Century chateau on the river here and a car museum. We drove back in plenty of time for happy hour and dinner...so soon!

The next day we cast off at 8AM again and cruised through the morning and early afternoon to Montceau les Mines, a bustling former industrial centre. From there we took the coach a little less than an hour to Cluny, for a guided tour of the remains of the Benedictine monastery founded here in 910 (!) by William the Pious, Duke of Aquitaine. Cluny became the most powerful monastic order in the 11th Century, having over 10,000 monks under its jurisdiction and the largest church in Christendom before the construction of St. Peter’s in Rome. The area was steeped in religious history and importance that was fascinating to discover. Another wonderful evening ensued with good company, great food, wine and many laughs with the great group we are still in contact with.

The next morning, through  a leisurely breakfast and lunch, with some walking in between, we cruised up a series of locks leading to the “summit pound.” This is the highest level on the Canal du Centre and is bordered by several artificial lakes dug at the end of the 18th Century to supply water for the canal.

At this point it was time for us to depart via the coach, back to our car parked at Montchanin station not far away. The rest of the group had three more relaxing days on board before their departure back to the States from Chagny. We had enjoyed an excellent, peaceful, yet fun, different three day and would highly recommend the company. Continental Waterways, Premier Hotel-Barge Company, pioneer of hotel barging for over 30 years, now with has a fleet of 12 wonderful barge holidays from which to choose. Please see our next issue in February for the continuation of our Great Finds in Burgundy featuring Michel Picard Winery, Beaune and much more.

Photos by Neal Finelli