ublin...a city steeped in history yet buzzing with renewed energy, investment and prosperity. With its fair share of fine museums, art galleries, restaurants, pubs, shopping, gardens and diverse architecture, it offers something for everyone.

Our visit however, in March, was not of the greatest timing! The otherwise small friendly, cheerful city was choked with traffic and all it’s frustrations. The noisy and prolific roadworks were creating the new public transport tram-bus system. When finished this will be a wonderful addition to the bustling downtown area, presently surrounded with too much traffic, as in all European cities large or small. Thankfully, most also offer very convenient and efficient transport for all concerned and this too will be the case in Dublin. Already they have many roads cut off to traffic in the center, enabling a much happier, safer place to shop, wander and do business.

After a long morning, with flight and traffic delays from London, we finally reached Dublin. Only an hour from Gatwick Airport, south of London and a usually quick ride into Dublin, it’s a great place for a weekend to visit or longer to stay. We used a great little car rental company, Murrays, at Dublin Airport which didn’t disappoint.

BUSWELLS HOTEL

Our 69 guest room and suite Buswells Hotel, was cosy and friendly, relaxed and very convenient. One of Dublin’s oldest, it comprises 5 Georgian townhouses and has been operated since 1882.

Nestled on Molesworth Street in the heart of the city it is steps to Government buildings, the National Art Gallery and Concert Hall, Trinity College, Theatres, Temple Bar and, peaceful respite, St. Stephen’s Green. The hotel’s main occupants are businessmen and councillors.

The comfort and character of the Buswells Hotel makes a favorite for lodging, food and drink while in Dublin.

Offering traditionally elegant accommodations, a Brasserie Restaurant, Truman’s, the busy Buswell’s Bar, private dining and meeting suites, facilities and gym, it proves a great city stop.

Nearby is the Jameson Centre, revealing the history of Irish Whisky, called, in Ireland, the “water of life.” Included in the new complex is a small, interactive museum devoted to Irish music, great for kids too. Across the pleasant, meandering River Liffey is the Guinness Brewery and Storehouse where the making of Ireland’s “national drink” is explained.

Classic Irish salmon at Brownes

Our first appointment was for lunch at the venerable Brownes hosted by the Irish Food Board, Bord Bia, and Mary Morrisey. Situated on fashionable St. Stephen’s Green, this restored 18th Century townhouse is considered one of Dublin’s finest luxury, boutique hotels.

We loved this smart and sophisticated brasserie and it’s delicious food. Our choices were the fresh Irish salmon, haddock and the duck confit . All excellent and created by Head Chef Steven O’Connor and his team, who have garnered many awards.

Fantastic cheeses from Kevin Sheridan

Mary then led us off for a brisk walk around town, welcome after our tedious morning. We detected the amazing aromas emanating from Sheridans Cheesemongers, on South Anne St., before we entered! We then enjoyed every minute of our cheese tasting with interesting and friendly, owner Kevin Sheridan. Fabulous farmhouse cheeses from Irish cottage industry cheesemakers. Hard, soft, blue, white, goat, cow and sheep’s milk cheeses were all there for our delight. We found out that England and Ireland make more cheeses than France!

Avoca, (weaver) was an interesting store also. Offering locally woven fabrics in anything but traditional colours and designs. The cellar housed a gorgeous food market and cafe and fashions of all sorts showed themselves off on every floor of this, another old large townhouse building.

After thanks to Mary for a great lunch and tour, we made use of the nearby attractive, busy Tourist Centre. There was much information on display there and very pleasant and helpful staff.

Our hotel was a good place for “gathering ourselves” in our very nice spacious suite before our dinner, scheduled at bleu, bistro moderne.

BLEU, BISTRO MODERNE

Chef Graham Deegana and his pot au feu at Blue

Close-by on Dawson Street, this small, chic restaurant was very professionally run by manager Anthony, and comprised a great little food and wine menu. Decorated in dark woods and black leather upholstery, the minimal clean lines were punctuated with white table linens.

Our roast parsnip soup with chestnut cream, was simple but so good, and the warm tian of fresh crab, tomato tartar, apple and cucumber, creme fraîche and brown rye toasts was also excellent.

The rich flavours of the striped sea bass ‘pot au feu,’ spinach, bouillabaisse sauce with rouille and the pan seared scallops paired boldly with boudin noir, (French for black pudding) herb crushed baby potatoes and wasabi foam were divine. Bleu was an excellent choice and very convenient in the center of Dublin. A fantastic evening from Chef Graham Deegan and staff.

Following a comfortable night and a civilised, traditional breakfast at Buswells we were off for a Dublin City Bus Tour. Always a must for us and a great overview of any city, from the experts! This company also offers short coach trips to the surrounding countryside negating the need for a rental car in the city. Our tour was the great “ hop on, hop off” type allowing you to visit places en route and pick up a following bus, or just stay on and enjoy the ride with information.

One of Dublin's many friendly bus drivers

We passed some of the places mentioned above, plus a few more, as well as some local colour and history, St. Patrick’s Cathedral and a visit to the Guinness Storehouse.

This latter award winning no.1 attraction of Ireland since it opened in November 2000, has had a record 1.8 million visitors from every corner of the world. Deserving of their awards this hip, sleek, uncomplicated yet informative “ showhouse” is a very new concept Culminating in a complimentary tasting of the black nectar at the top of the building in the Gravity Bar and the fabulous views overlooking the city! Spread out over 4 acres of space, one of the highlights is the central glass atrium 7 floors high, subtly in the shape of a pint glass!

Glass walled elevators or open metal stairways lead you through the discovery of ingredients; filtered water, barley, hops and yeast, the process, the craft, the passion that goes into every pint...and the drinking of it! We did note that everyone we came across in Dublin was very smiley and jolly...we think it could have a lot to do with this convivial libation!

As close to heaven as you can get. The Gravity Bar at the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin

Ten million glasses of Guinness are consumed each day in over 150 countries worldwide and until very recently all that began its life here in Dublin at the adjacent St. James’s Gate Brewery. There are still only two other breweries in the world.

After a light lunch in the bustling Temple Bar area of shops and cafes we returned to Buswells to check-out and head two hours west for the countryside and Athlone. Our destination for two nights was the Wineport Lodge, in tiny Glasson, County Westmeath.

WINEPORT LODGE,
TAITTINGER CHAMPAGNE LOUNGE AND RESTAURANT

Cozy and stylish - the rooms and food at the Wineport Lodge

This was a really “great find.” Situated on the tip of Lough Ree and its marshes enabled it to be very quiet and peaceful and we immediately loved the place. As we settled in enjoying the gorgeous L’Occitane bathroom accoutrement, the sunset enveloped the lake and as if on cue to complete the perfect setting a white swan silently swept by...

After ten years as a lakeside restaurant, owners Ray Byrne and Jane English added ten smart, new, minimal, sophisticated and well appointed guest rooms, all facing the lake. It was easy to see why the Wineport Lodge was voted “ Best Hideaway” last year.There are more rooms planned to be built. The striking cedar and glass hotel with Bose stereo and heated bathroom floors, it’s views along the lake with the 250 vintage wines available make it well worth the visit.

The icing on the cake, was the gorgeous two storey, hotel guest only,

Taittinger Champagne Lounge. Imbuing wonderful aromas of new woods and cigars, the room had several huge silver Champagne buckets filled with bottles for the choosing and a small friendly bar for any time. (That’s it in our cover photo).

The Wineport Lodge stands near the spot where 6th Century monks took delivery of wine from Gaul, shipped along the River Shannon.

The adjoining hotel restaurant was large and spacious with a banquet area open to the public and more casual than the hotel region. This is a wonderful site for weddings and parties and was the location for our relaxing evening meal. The restaurant was built of warm woods and the comfortable Parsons chairs added to the coziness. Norma, with the Wineport 11 years since its opening, took wonderful care of us.

Our dining introduction was a starter tasting plate of five appetisers to share. What a great idea, we loved it. An espresso cup of delectable mushroom and thyme soup; crispy tiger prawn wontons with lime and pepper chili jam; seared foie gras on honey roast apple and mustard French beans; McGeogh’s turfsmoked lamb (so fine, a wonderfully innovative meld of flavours); the fresh, fresh crab and Boilie cheese (soft cream cheese) tart, pistachio and creme fraiche, and the baked chorizo and cheddar herb crusted Lissadel oysters!!! Need there be more? This was a fabulous start along with a lovely glass of Chablis Grand Cru.

The main course tastings were the grilled turbot, braised red cabbage, dill and Riesling grape butter and the Dublin Bay prawns, fennel lobster cream with wild basmati rice all with delightful fresh, baby vegetables. Our very enjoyable wine to complement was the Mea Corona Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva 2000.

We had to taste some fabulous Irish cheeses. The Cheese Tasting Course comprised smoked Abbey Brie, smoked Ardrahan, the Cooleeney Camembert and the Cashel Blue. This accompanied by fresh fruit, cheese biscuits (crackers), grape and red onion marmalade. Vintage ports, dessert wines, spirits and cigars were all available as were the lovely desserts, like the chocolate pear terrine with caramel and pear creme fraiche.

The whole menu was prepared and executed with much tender loving care, as well as innovative fresh interpretations by Chef Feargal O’ Donnell and Second Chef Linda Martin.

We then chose a digestive stroll on the long, silent dock stretching out to the mirror-smooth lake before enjoying a very comfortable night.

The early morning lake mists gradually revealed the water and landscape, where ducks appeared ghostly from its depths as the light increased into day. Thankfully due to the quality floor to ceiling linen drapes, this vision was our choice, not compulsory at that hour!

A tray of coffees and bites was delivered to our room for our leisure, which always feels such a luxury and is always appreciated.

Our day was to prove a full one and not too successful. A rare thing, I am glad to say, during our travels! Friends had enthusiastically recommended that we visit Drumoland Castle and we had also learned that President Bush was to go there in the summer.

We thought it worth the two hour drive. However, on finally finding it we came upon a road block guarded by police. We smilingly said that we were here to visit the castle only to be informed that the castle and its grounds were closed that day due to a secret European Summit meeting. Firmly closed. So secret nobody could save us all that driving...was this a joke? Unfortunately not.

Every cloud has a silver lining and we spent some light-hearted time chatting with all the ministers’ chauffeurs, camped out in an adjacent hotel and getting all their gossip. Some were very helpful and went up to the castle themselves to sneak us some brochures and information!

Onward then to Ennis for lunch instead, where we had a good time in the old, Old Ground Hotel in the middle of the charming High Street. This was a second, (well by this time third, choice) due to a power cut along the High Street!

We then tried for a visit to Galway Bay. We would then have travelled right across Ireland. Well, we did make it...but by then the Friday rush hour got the better of us and we only glimpsed the Bay before we had to head back in time for our dinner reservations at Restaurant Le Château in Athlone. After well over twelve years of fabulous travels together I am sure we were due a funky day, so no complaints!

Before we left for Athlone we very much enjoyed a chat with owner Ray in their gorgeous Champagne Lounge, along with a delectable glass of Champagne.

RESTAURANT LE CHÂTEAU

Restaurant Le Chateau was originally an 1870's church

This was a great architectural restaurant having been built as a church in 1870, one of only two Scottish Presbyterian churches in Ireland then. It was very cleverly converted with different levels for dining and huge pillars breaking up the large space, which also provided foundations to which to attach these mini floors. The decor was cozy, warm and inviting with a nautical theme, a galleon idea, and our table had the great Gothic window at the front overlooking the River Shannon and the town beyond.

The menu was just right, not too long or short on choices, and often changed, with the added bonus of Chef/Owner Steve Linehan being very willing to provide diners’ special orders also. We tried the Combination of Starters, an Espresso of Soup, carrot and parsnip puree, gorgeous, and Goujons of Cod Kattaffi (pastry) with chili jam and homemade tartar along with a delicious Chablis, Verger.

Supervisor, Shirley and server Robbie, took good care of us and were knowledgeable and friendly. We then shared a very nicely prepared chicken kebab, with “ Rachel K’s” Thai curry sauce, rice and fresh vegetables and the oven baked roast vegetables in filo pastry with three excellent sauces to dip. All light and tasty, this time with a South African, Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc.

Our excellent Poached Pears with ice cream and hot chocolate sauce...was just part of the menu that also offered a fine cheese board, more delectable sounding desserts, coffees, brandies and ports.

Steve, (with wife Martina), owners here for seven years, was full of information and we all enjoyed sharing our travel stories over brandy and coffee.

A few of our closest Irish friends

The night was beautiful and we joined in some revelry at Sean’s Bar nearby, established in 1670, the oldest in Ireland! Another “ great find,” this tiny pub had some exposed original wall of wattle and daub, preserved for the likes of us to ponder over a Guinness!

Sadly too soon, leaving the lovely Wineport Lodge the following morning early, we headed back to Dublin. As usual wanting to make the most of the time there, before our flight, we drove around the attractive north side of Dublin Bay to Howth and Malahide. The weather was great and so were the windy walks along the shore. Friendly people, lovely scenery all help to make the Emerald Isle a pleasure to visit. Next time we will take more time to discover the beauty elsewhere that is legend in Ireland.

Snaps by Neal Finelli