Canada! What a great destination this majestic country
makes for us, from Florida. Just a short flight away
is Montreal or Quebec
City (Province of Quebec) with it’s history
and European/French feel...for a fraction of the price
and time! It’s a good thing.’ Our trip in
January was for one week, sharing the time in those
two fantastic cities. Yes it was COLD but a refreshing
change for us living here.
In 1535 Jacques Cartier,
who discovered Canada, returned upriver to the island
that would later bear the name of Montreal. Impressed
with the mountain, he climbed it and called it Mont
Royal. Founded in 1632, by a small group of French
settlers, its very interesting history, mostly due
to the tremendous advantages afforded by its location,
has forged it into the excellent, sophisticated and
cosmopolitan city that it is today.
Montreal is an island, about the size of Manhattan
with about one fifth of the population! This makes
for a vibrant yet calm and friendly city. It’s
wonderful to be surrounded by history and yet have
the modern city and services at your disposal. It is
also the second largest French-speaking city in the
world. This is a city that loves to celebrate and it
has become home to many international festivals, jazz,
film, comedy, fine dining, fireworks, winter sports
and summer festivities as well.
The Canadian Toursime Quebec
(Provence), namely Magalie
Boutin, were fantastic in helping us co-ordinate
our stay, helping with accommodations and flights and
tour guides.
HOTEL GAULT
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Montreal: Hotel Gault’s
contemporary, chic lobby and top quality guest
rooms
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We arrived late on a Monday
night at our first stop on the itinerary and were welcomed
into the very smart Hotel
Gault in old Montreal. Named after the original
architect and located on the Rue Sainte Helene, nestled
in the old city’s business district, it is a wonderfully
surprising find. Bought in 1998 by entrepreneur and
arts patron Daniel Langlois
(founder of the popular cinema complex Ex-Centris),
he collaborated with the architects, his wife Ghyslain,
and Directeur Mariette
Parent to create
“a hotel that despite its modernity and audacity,
would become a classic.” It certainly deserves
to. I loved this hotel. The team had gone to pains
to preserve the historic integrity of the building
and its 19th-century facade yet fill it with luxurious,
modernity.
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The main door is set right on the corner of the street
at an angle and stairs rise to the very open, large
and spare entrance hall that is unlike any other lobby.
Discreetly housing the central reception, backing
onto the bar...good plan this, with casually surrounding
designer repro’ chairs and a fabulous, huge Italian
couch. It all belied the excellent service and quiet
attention always on hand by the staff .
Hotel Gault offers the luxury of space in its 30 rooms,
unusual in a city centre, comprising polished concrete
floors, cast iron columns and minimal line furniture
creating spare, serene yet sexy interiors. All huge
rooms provide excellent beds, the best hotel bed I’ve
experienced! Sumptuous duvets clothe the beds, gorgeous
large bathrooms with heated floors as well as CD and
DVD players, work stations and a flat-screen TV equip
each room.
The hotel also has 24 hour room service, a fitness
centre and conference room. Breakfast was a lovely
calm affair with a buffet for all your needs plus something
hot if you so desire. I did not want to leave!
At 9 am the following day we met with tour guide Marie
Jose Pinsonnault who took us all over Montreal,
old and new. All very interesting in this spacious,
clean and friendly city. We had a taste of what we
could visit the next day with more time, such as the
Museums of Fine Arts, and Archaeology and History,
the architecture, parks, the soaring Notre Dame Basilica
where Celine Dion was married, galleries, the Biodome,
markets and shops.
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Schwartz’s Deli - feeding
us
and The Stones!
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Marie then took us for lunch to Schwartz’s
Deli, famous for smoked meats and we were amused
to see the giant sandwiches being prepared for the
Rolling Stones who
were in town for a concert!
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Mick Jagger on his way to
their concert
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After this we had to experience the ‘underground’
Montreal. This vast network extends 18 miles!
The subway, trains and bus lines are all connected,
enabling the locals in the very, cold winter to travel
about the city and shop in weather-proof warmth! A-mazing.
Over 500,000 people a day circulate here and have the
choice of over 2,000 stores; a multitude of boutiques,
department stores, restaurants, cinemas, theatres and
exhibition halls!
Our evening was to be spent
in the renowned restaurant Toqué!
in the Latin Quarter, on the Rue St. Denis. The evenings
were a delight in Montreal and Quebec, as all the Christmas
lights were still up. Apparently they stay that way
until February, no doubt endeavouring to cheer the
locals in the freezing temperatures!
TOQUE!
Chef/Owner Normand Laprise
creates memorably sophisticated and delicious
meals in the kitchen, partner Christine
Lamarche oversees the front of house with ultra
professionalism.
Toque! means stubborn, a good trait to have for restaurateurs
if they want to maintain standards! This narrow but
dynamic restaurant is very much part of the community
and has offered many interesting events for its clients
over its last ten years.
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Expert and fresh, fresh,
fresh fare offered at Toque!
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One of Chef Normand’s rules is that products used
in the kitchen must meet the highest standards of freshness,
flavour and quality. Last season he discovered that
a faithful client who had traded her city career for
the country, now had a small farm and was producing
aromatic herbs and vegetables. Picked daily and handled
with care, the pesticide-free local produce immediately
won over the Chef and customers benefit of course.
Field berries and wild plants to follow, and hopefully
long-forgotten delicacies such as young dandelion greens.
We were well taken care of by our server Spargolo,
from Tuscany, and our first tiny tasting was a fresh
Prince Edward Island Oyster in soy wine and olive oil.
These first chef offerings are different every night.
One of our delicious first courses comprised the Gratin
of Tournevent fresh goat cheese, spinach, leek and
the afore mentioned supplier’s Charlotte potato
with beet and apple juice flavoured with rosemary oil!
The other starter was the Isle de Madeleine (a tiny
island near Quebec), which consisted of scallops marinated
in chili oil, topped with quince mousse. Delightfully
refreshing. Such a variety of a wonderful bounty of
ingredients paired with a Pouilly Fumé.
Prior to the main course Chef sent us an excellent
sliver of Yellowfin tuna with a wafer crouton and chili
oil. So fresh. Our main choices were the Rack of Lamb,
roasted cipollini onion, (hard-to-find bittersweet
bulbs of the grape hyacinth) and sautéed yellow foot
chanterelles, local carrots and garlic purée and the
Venison, tender like butter, with a sweet young turnip
galette and sautéed nameko mushrooms and garlic puree.
SO good, and the presentations matched the food. All
the attention and tender loving care definitely paid
off! These accompanied by tastings of Macon, Sangiovese
and Bordeaux. Was this heaven? Also the prices, such
good value compared with many here...as well as the
Canadian dollar exchange.
Our next was the lovely surprise cheese tasting. A
cheddar, Camembert and Chevre along with a divine Burgundy,
Epoisse.
Not that we needed dessert, but Chefs always want us
to try something! This came in the beautiful form of
the Sesame Tuile with shaved pineapple, fresh raspberries
and pomegranate. So palate cleansing and delightful.
Toqué is a very well run restaurant and the delicate
balance of timing was perfected here by Christine and
Chef Normand. So important for fine dining, almost
as much as the food, timing is often badly managed,
either courses coming too quickly or too slowly! The
feeling of being hurried or made to wait too long does
nothing to enhance a delicious and let’s face
it, usually expensive meal.
Congratulations to the team at Toqué. We whole-heartedly
recommend a visit.
CULTURAL
FINDS IN MONTREAL
After breakfast we set off
for a long and filled day of exploring some of many
cultural venues on Montreal. Our first, well alright,
not that cultural, but a landmark, the Bonsecours
Market.
A symbol of Montreal’s heyday, this attractive
building with its high tin-plated dome, inaugurated
in 1847, was the main agricultural marketplace for
over a century. It rules the area, overlooking the
mighty St. Lawrence River and an open-air ice-skating
rink on the water’s edge. Recent renovations have
turned it once again into a busy market place featuring
boutiques, cafés and exhibitions. The walk along old
St. Paul was very enjoyable in itself.
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Great subway artwork
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We then caught a tube train (subway), (I felt so at-home
with all the English terms), to the Museum of Modern
Art. Here we viewed the refreshing and stimulating
Sam Taylor Woods exhibition and followed it by a late
baguette lunch at the Cafe Baroque, an unexpectedly
good find housed in the Wyndam Hotel. The Botanical
Gardens would have to wait until a summer visit, soon
I hope.
The famous Biodome came next. Here four natural ecosystems
create an environmental museum all under one roof.
The tropical forests, Laurentian forest, the local
marine environment and the polar world are all presented
in their natural forms. What a treasure for teachers
and their classes as well as the general public, and
a great way to get out of the weather for a few hours!
We then had to beat a hasty retreat back across town
to Hotel Gault to prepare for our evening. En route
we passed a crowd outside the venerable landmark hotel
St. James and after
a while The Rolling Stones all trouped out one by one
heading for the concert venue that evening.
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Great food and authentic
French atmosphere at L'Express
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This time our dinner reservations were for L’Express,
funnily enough on rue St. Denis. Almost opposite Toqué!
it too was not a big restaurant. However, it was buzzing
and full by 7 pm when we arrived.
This was a fun, bustling and again very well run, bistro,
vintage French. Known locally as the restaurateur’s
restaurant, and where the staff members go to eat after
hours, it’s open until 2 am. Not quite Longboat
Key! A signature of L’Express is a jar of cornichons
on every table to help yourself and the hand written
menu, which is moderately priced.
Maitre d’ Charles
and waiter, Nicholas took good care of us despite the
throng that happily cuckooed for food! Open since
1980 by owners Collette
Brossois and Mario,
along with Chef Joel Chapoulie
are surely doing everything right.
Our first courses were the Moules Mariniere and superb
Fish Soup. Both big favourites of ours. Followed by
the full of flavour Duck Breast and variety of new
salads and the very delicious filet of Doré with almonds.
The no fuss menu, but great food, drew the crowds for
three seatings a night, especially at weekends! The
high gloss chestnut walls and large mirrors, amber
ceiling, black and white tiled floors and full length
bar all added to the ‘Frenchness’ and enjoyment.
L’Express offers a simple but great cheese list,
with the type of milk and locality of the farm from
which it’s made! That’s how important a menu
item is cheese to the French. Alongside is a wonderful
wine list, very complete and well priced, as well as
a host of Bourbon, Grappa, Vodka, liqueur, Port, Sherry,
Eau de Vie, Cognac, Armagnac, Rum and Scotch! Writing
this article just makes me want to go back!
Before returning to the Hotel Gault, we wanted to find
a near-by champagne bar, that I had read about a called
Bubbles. This unfortunately was closed that evening.
We found a lively bar across the street called Publix.
This wasn’t your mother’s Publix but a cool
spot with music, libations ansd specializing in Vodkas.
Thus began our fling with Vanilla Vodka.
Our First Class reservations on the Via Rail to Quebec,
were for midday the next day, but prior to leaving
we very much enjoyed a chat with Hotel Gault’s
low-key and very pleasant yet very able Directeur,
Mariette. We saw a few other rooms and very handsome
suite also.
VIA RAIL
TO QUEBEC
Via Rail has the
country wrapped up for clean, efficient rail travel.
This must be a plus due to the severe and unpredictable
long winter weather conditions that prevail. Travellers
can travel smoothly and care-free right from the east
to the west of Canada, linking 450 localities. They
also offer many travel packages and promotions with
many plushly fitted trains offering some fabulous journeys
through the Canadian Rockies to the lakes of Ontario,
as well as to all the cities.
We were very pleased to experience their First Class
ride to Quebec and back to Montreal. It took three
hours. Quality time to be together and do some year
planning! Far superior to battling the roads and maps.
This was our very civilised lunch menu: ~
En
route we saw much farm land and trees and learned that
80% of the world’s maple syrup is produced between
Montreal and Quebec!
CIRQUE DU
SOLEIL
Quebec Province is the birthplace of the fabulous Cirque
du Soleil, the debut show presented in 1984. Since
then the Canadian company’s many different shows
have been exciting and delighting thousands on their
worldwide tours.
It was less than 24 hours after I first approached
Tourisme Quebec to help us with our trip there, that
we received a gracious invitation to attend ‘Quidam,’
preforming that night in Tampa! After some schedule
rearranging we could finally make it. How could we
miss one of these great productions, and this, the
nearest to us yet.
“Quidam, a nameless passer-by, a solitary
figure lingering on a street corner, a person rushing
past, a person who lives lost amidst the crowd in an
all-too-anonymous society.”
This was our third experience of Cirque du Soleil.
Our first, ‘La Nouba’
in Orlando and the second ‘O’ in Las Vegas.
All magnificent, thought provoking, different, yet
with similar traits, totally ‘outside the box’
and total entertainment. If you haven’t seen a
show yet, what are you waiting for?
QUEBEC CITY
AUBERGE SAINT PIERRE
Arriving in Quebec City mid-afternoon, we headed straight
for the very pleasant Auberge
Saint Pierre, our ‘home’ for the
next two nights, a short distance from the handsome
Gare du Palais station.
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Quaint, comfortable and cozy
L'Auberge Saint Pierre
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This 31 room and 10 suite inn was an excellent base
for our adventures in Quebec. It was warm! comfortable
and inviting. The wood floors, stone and brick walls,
down comforters in each room with sparkling, well equipped
en suite bathrooms, all added to the very nice feel
there.
Adjoining the lobby there was a small library with
magazines and books to peruse by the welcoming fire
or just for relaxing. Off the entrance hall was the
cosy dining room for breakfast and dinner.
After settling in and adding clothing in order to face
the outdoors again, (this time even cooler than Montreal!),
we set off to explore. Very cold it was too. How about
-16°F. Colder than I’d ever experienced and not
conducive to being outside. So shopping was the only
answer! However we did find the wonderful little Funicular
railway close-by (using it many times, thankfully)
and ascended to the Chateau
Frontenac. What a view...all round. From right
across the icy St. Lawrence to the beautiful skyline
and the world famous Chateau and its steeples piercing
the sky it was magical. There was a tempting toboggan
run in front of the Chateau...but I did not know how
I could stay out there long enough. We just have to
return in the summer!
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Staff Gilles and Marie Eve
with Portofino owner François Petit. A great
find!
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After donning and removing layers a few times we opted
to return to our cosy inn and relax before battling
the elements once more for our evening meal.
This time at the renowned Portofino,
Bistro Italiano. Having so many Italian restaurants
locally, this held no real excitement for me. However
we had a really great evening all round. What a fun,
friendly and packed place this was. Running like clockwork
from the minute you step in, to the moment you leave.
Forget valet parking, the coat-check girl makes a fortune!
Owners François Petit
and James Monti
were on hand overseeing the nightly performance while
Chef Vincenzo was
busy working his magic.
The ‘Averna’ marked the commencement of our
dining, a Sicilian shot, along with some great tasting
spicy mussels that warmed us considerably! Our first
plates were the appetizer size, Fazzoletti Tre Colori,
an absolutely delicious pasta stuffed with goat cheese
and Sambuca sauce and the best Risotto we’d ever
tasted. Our waiter, Gilles, took great care of us and
followed this with a superb Minestrone and a Veal
Chop with special Ravioli stuffed with ricotta and
spinach in a tomato cream sauce.
All so fresh and delicious, we both agreed that this
was the best Italian restaurant we’d ever experienced.
Shame it’s so far away! Just people watching was
enough in this place and the Argentinian guitarist,
Guillermo also kept us delighfully entertained.
Our dessert tastings comprised the Creme Brulee and
the Torta Passione, a chocolate mousse Gateau with
white chocolate and fresh fruit. This place was packed
and we had found out why. The food and atmosphere,
was terrific and so was the service. Can’t beat
that! Thanks to them all for a great time.
After a lovely breakfast at L’Auberge
Saint Pierre the next day, we met with Sharon
Frenette, our trusty tour guide for the morning,
courtesy Tourisme Quebec. What a treat this was again,
to have a private overview of the area. Sharon drove
us to the Ile d’Orleans across the St. Lawrence
River from Quebec and showed us this tiny, quiet island,
90% of which is for farming, all for local restaurants.
As well as for some commuters to the city, it was a
calm place and the low population also made it a good
weekend spot. We visited a tiny local chocolaterie,
sampled and bought some delicious fare, mai oui!
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Our tour guide Sharon Frenette
in front of an amazing four-storey mural of
Old Quebec's history
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We then returned to the Quebec City side of the river
and drove slightly south to Montmorency
Falls Park. The 272 ft. falls, actually 93 ft.
higher than Niagara, are a beautiful spectacle. Bordered
by trails and lookouts, a cable car, panoramic stairs
and a suspension bridge, you are covered for whatever
view you may care to take. As early as 1542 seafarer’s
comments were recorded of the magnificent falls.
At the top perches the Manoir
Montmorency with its handsome Restaurant
du Manoir. A very busy place year round not
only offering lunches, Sunday brunch, table d’hote
menus and business banquets, but also hosting many
weddings. What a special place with a fabulous view
and only minutes from Quebec City.
After our tour we stopped nearby our inn for a light
lunch of fresh baguettes at Petit
Cochon. This chain we found to be reliable,
clean and offering good, fresh food wherever they were.
We shopped in the beautiful Place
Royale, the first place to be settled in Quebec
and enjoyed some time in the new Interpretation
Museum of Quebec’s history. A film along
with some robotics brought the past alive.
We spent some quiet time in the gorgeous Notre Dame
started in 1688 on the Place and then walked the lower
road along the river to the boutiques lining the streets.
We found the art gallery, Galerie
Madeleine Lacerte, showing exhibitions amongst
others, of Michele Bernachez.
We had met Michele and her husband at Toque! in Montreal,
and after chatting found that we were to be close to
where her art was being shown in Quebec two days later!
We felt right at home making friends with them and
felt very much part of the place. We loved the small
town feeling of the old city.
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The very polished INITIALE
Old Quebec
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Following some revival at our Inn, we returned to a
very smart and well put together restaurant along out
street called INITIALE,
just minutes from the Chateau Frontenac, that we had
seen the previous night. We were so glad we made time,
as owners Madame Rolande
Leclerc and Chef
Monsieur Yvan Lebrun shared a little of their
time and some of their divine champagne and exquisite
hors d’oeuvre with us. This was an excellent place,
a member of the Chaine
de Rotisseurs, Four Diamond and Grand Prize winner
from Tourisme Quebec in 2000 and one unfortunately
we did not have time to enjoy further. Definitely next
time.
On a note regarding language....before we came here
I was wondering how the situation would be as far as
the usage of the French language. Wherever we were
we were pleased to find very friendly, pleasant people
willing to speak French or English and none of the
previously known antagonism.
Cafe de la Paix
was our next stop for dinner up in the old city. This
small, traditional restaurant was warm and inviting
and our first courses of Lobster Bisque and Moules
Marinere were full of great flavours. The place was
again full, a mixed crowd of all ages. Quebecois certainly
don’t mind braving the winter temperatures to
get out and for some wining and dining.
Owner Benito was
present taking care of everyone and our experienced
waiter Mario also did a great job. The low candle light,
paneled walls and boxed wooden ceilings made for a
cozy atmosphere and the guitarist played gentle, relaxing
romantic songs. This was a typical Quebec restaurant
serving great local, produce and seafood.
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Traditional cuisine warms
your soul at Cafe de Paix
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Our main courses were the Caribou Chops with slivers
of Foie Gras, so excellent, mild and tender and the
Seafood Platter in a white wine sauce topped with puff
pastry. Paired with a wonderful St. Emilion 2000 it
was all very enjoyable.
In need of some exercise we opted to skip dessert in
favour of a cappuccino at Portofino once again! We
found the same packed bustle going on and we joined
the crowd. We really made a night of it and then headed
to the Hotel Clarendon
where some good jazz was going down and the onto the
famous nightclub, Chez
Maurice for some salsa dancing! This club was
packed too, with disco on one floor, salsa on the other
and quiet bars placed strategically. We took advantage
of this energy and made the most of our evening.
After a slow start the next morning, Saturday, we strolled
up to the Chateau Frontenac, (purportedly, the most
photographed hotel in the world), for a visit inside
and a coffee. The huge spacious hotel built from 1893,
with its 618 rooms and 24 luxurious suites was classically
elegant and the views were stunning. Commanding the
top of Cap Diamont overlooking the St. Lawrence River,
this is a world famous destination.
After lunch at another Petit Cochon we took a nearby
ferry across the frozen waters of the St. Lawrence
River. This was a great experience just to see the
mini icebergs inexorably jostling seaward. To our surprise
a few groups of hearty souls were training for the
upcoming Winter Festival races. We couldn’t believe
how they could do it. How grueling it was, in and out
of the freezing water and up and down the ice crevasses!
Good luck! It was definitely worth the short ride back
and forth.
After checking out we made our way to the station to
join the Via Rail, to return to Montreal for a night
at the Hotel Gault once more, ready for our early flight
Sunday, back to Tampa.
Both cities, so near and yet so different. We loved
the open spacious city of Montreal with all its upbeat
modern side and we loved the tiny, quaint, snow-clad
lanes of old Quebec City with all their great restaurants
and history. We know we’ll be back...in the summer!
Photos by Neal Finelli
CONTACTS:
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Tourisme Quebec
www.quebecregion.com
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Hotel Gault
449, rue Sainte-Helene,
Montreal, Canada H2Y 2K9
1 866 904 1616
www.hotelgault.com
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Auberge
Saint-Pierre
79 rue Saint-Pierre,
Quebec,
1 888 268 1017
www.auberge.qc.ca
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Restaurant
Toque!
3842, rue Saint-Denis
Montreal, 1 514 499 2084
www.restaurant-toque.com
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INITIALE
54, rue St-Pierre
Quebec, 1 418 694 1818
www.restaurantinitiale.com
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L’Express
3927.rue Saint-Denis,
Montreal, 1 514 845
5333 |
Portofino,
Bistro Italiano
54, rue Couillard,
Old-Quebec, 1 418 692
8888 |
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VIA Rail Canada
www.viarail.com
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Cafe
de la Paix
44, rue Desjardins,
Old-Quebec,
1 418 692 1430 |
