ontinuing from Portland, (last issue), having had our trusty Enterprise car delivered to the hotel for no extra cost, we headed out of the city, following the direction of the inimitable Lewis and Clark, west to the magnificent Pacific Coast and Lincoln City. The two and a half hours drive was quiet and the fir tree-lined roads pleasantly quiet. We had been told by the Oregon Coast Visitor’ Association, who helped plan our itinerary, that we should not miss a meal at the infamous Otis Cafe. So just before reaching Lincoln City, low and behold, we discovered the tiny place right there along the highway where we had a late lunch.
A real local hang out, and yes the stomachs and behinds were rather prevalent from all the high calorie and delicious homemade fare. Our doorstep sandwiches were something to behold! A great spot.
 |
The comfortable A-frame amongst the treetops and gorgeous Pacific Ocean view from the Sea Horse in Lincoln City |
We easily found our beach-side hotel, the Sea Horse Oceanfront Lodging, just off the Highway 101. Host and Manager Dawn Bredimus was great and very accommodating, falling in with our changed plans at the last minute. We love cool people like her, ‘don’t sweat the small stuff!’ What a great view, could not beat it. This straight forward 54 guest room lodging, with other suites, cottages and vacation homes available nearby, was just the answer for a brief visit to Lincoln City.
However the jacuzzi was full all the time so we did miss out on that! There was also an indoor heated pool. Our first night there was spent in a large ‘A’ frame cottage, close to the Sea Horse, as that main hotel was full. This was fun and different, very relaxing and peaceful, with pine tree-top views from all the windows along that fabulous coast. With three bedrooms and fully equipped, this would be terrific for a family or small group.
Our dinner reservations were held at the nearby Wildflower Grill. Lovely owner Vicky Warner, (and partner Chef Chuck Chesson), were on hand to show us around and luckily found us a table outside on the attractive dining deck overlooking a field, with tall, tall firs and a stream beyond. Opened four and a half years ago this intimate 1930’s cottage was lovingly restored, (with the best bathrooms also - beautiful and cosily decorated), as well as the gardens, which were bursting with colour from all the wildflowers. The menu offers something for everyone. The atmosphere was casual and the food was anything but. The end-of-August evening was divinely cool and great for us escaping hot Florida.
 |
Hearty and delicious fare from the Wildflower Grill. |
The first course comprised two soups of the day for us, the Cream of Cheddar and the Chicken and Bockwurst, both very good.
The Marrionberry Hazelnut Duck, crispy grilled, then topped with the fruit sauce, hazelnuts and citrus, and the Northwest Seafood Pasta, with local clams, mussels and bay shrimp tossed with Sicilian Lobster cream and ‘giant garlic’ sauce, seasonal veggies and fettuccini noodles were a delight to behold as well as eat. The owners took much TLC with every dish from the kitchen and the crowd was sharing and having fun across the tables. Comfort food with a twist is how they describe their menu, specialising in creative northern cuisine and Cajun specialties, with fresh daily specials. Our dining came to a close with the Lemon Angel dessert and coffees. All great. The Wildflower Grill is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week and is always busy.
Lincoln City was a funky little seaside place with a casino and its 24 hour entertainment, antique shops, galleries, The Factory Stores, kite festivals, cafes and restaurants.
We were stunned and thrilled to see, right from the high road overlooking the bay and beach, about nine grey whales close into shore.
After a late start the next day, limiting our breakfast choices even on a Sunday, we ventured out locally and found a very cool spot for coffee, (and wine tasting - a little early for that), in Chateau Benoit. Housed in a shopping plaza belying its quality, this little place was a great find for gifts and wines. Also with light fare to furnish picnics, as well as drinks, fresh berries of all sorts and a fabulous cheese bar.
 |
The cool waters and scenic beaches of Pacific City. |
We then explored south along the 101 to Tillamook and Pacific City and had a relaxed read and walk on the continuing magnificent beach.
This night was booked into the main Sea Horse Hotel and the staff had kindly moved our gear during the day, to a large two bedroom suite with a kitchen and the most fantastic beach view. The hotel was perched 85 feet above the shore enabling long vistas. We found out, after a heart thumping steep stairway down, and yes, back up, that not far along from the hotel steps was a parking spot with a gentle slope to the beach! See how we give you these great tips.
Having stocked up earlier at Chateau Benoit we found that same spot and settled on a sheltered nook surfside, for a gorgeous sunset picnic.
After goodbyes to Dawn the next morning, we were on our way to Spanish Point further south, for breakfast. It was here the day before that Orcas were seen from the restaurant! Eeek! I couldn’t wait.
Again with a terrific panorama we had a good breakfast, but alas with not an Orca in sight. Some lovely person on the staff said that whales were further south at Depoe Bay....very skeptically we set off in search. As we approached the seaside town, a crowd was gathered roadside, looking out to sea. We joined them rapidly and were stunned and thrilled to see, right from the high road overlooking the bay and beach, about nine grey whales close into shore. What a state, we loved this wild Oregon.
A little further south still, Otter Rock did not disappoint. Again from the road we could see the endearing creatures, enjoying a safe distance from humanity on the rocks below!
On to the Sea Lion Caves, another half hour south, we saw many sea lions basking on the outside, luckily, of their famous caves from the paths above. Was this our day or what?! Sometimes the sea lions prefer the caves and the only way to get a glimpse is to pay and go down in an elevator... not quite ‘playing cricket,’ (read unreasonable), we thought!
Florence was next, and a fun filled dune buggy ride for Neal. I was so envious as I love the speed of a ride but I was suffering a badly broken collarbone, so all I could do was take photos. Ah!
 |
Preparing for the ride of a lifetime at the sand dunes in Florence. |
Sandland Adventures was the place to be for this dune thrill ride. The experienced drivers took three or four passengers for the spin of their lives up and down unbelievable dunes of up to 300 feet. Long pants and sleeves are recommended as sand gets into places you’d rather it didn’t! A fantastic ride and Neal still has a grin on his face!
Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area is an impressive natural wonder of these towering dunes and endless shifting sands. Neal loved every minute. An exhilarating or relaxing buggy ride, suitable for both large or small groups are available. There’s also go-karts, mini-golf, bumper boats, a train ride and gift shop. This place was packed with fun-seekers of all ages. Located one hour west of Eugene and just south of Florence it was easy to find.
Always lovers of picnics, we enjoyed the remainder of our booty from Chateau Benoit, and found a delightful riverside spot in old Florence for a light lunch.
This village was so attractive with a little main street of quaint and inviting shops, galleries cafes and restaurants skirting an inlet. We wished we’d had more time here.
Leaving this pleasant place we headed east towards Eugene, our next destination. Another suggestion en route from the Visitor’s Association was the Gingerbread Village, not far inland from Florence on the Route 126. This old-world shoppe was a popular destination for ice creams and home-made gingerbread, pies and meals. A nice stop after our light picnic.
This lovely inn, maintained with loving care, was truly a great find. Walking distance from the town it was a great location, plus there was a great hiking hill, Skinner Butte, up behind the inn, in the National Historic District.
 |
The charming Campbell House Inn in Eugene. The rooms left nothing to be desired while the morning breakfasts were a great start to the day. |
 |
|
Built in 1892 it was restored in the tradition of a fine European hotel. Nineteen elegant guest rooms, suites and a cottage all featuring luxury amenities. Our suite was like a spa with a gorgeous corner bath, luscious robes and bath cosmetics as well as the smart but cozy decor, sitting room and high four poster bedroom. I could live here! It is also rated one of the top 25 inns in the nation by the American Historic Inns and 4 diamond by AAA.
Our welcome was completed by a bottle of bubbly and a gift wine carrier from Proprietor Myra Plant. Such class. While we were there the staff were readying for the addition of evening meals to be served on certain nights at the inn. If the rest of the place was anything to go by, this would be a great success.
An early evening walk to nearby Fifth Street was through the pleasant residential area in which we were staying. The Fifth Street Public Market is where you’ll find a collection of shops, restaurants and a gallery. Planters containing overflowing flowers were everywhere and gorgeous. Also the Nike Store with its Heritage Wall of how this empire started from within the University of Oregon (A great career profile of long distance runner Steve Prefontaine can be enjoyed here.) We loved this small, yet cosmopolitan and enlightened town.
Marché too was terrific. On a Monday night this place was full and we learned why. French for market, the word not only describes their location but their philosophy of cooking. The creative menu is based on the foods found in a market, fresh, regional, seasonal. Their culinary technique is French based but NW style, intensely flavoured and beautifully presented in a very modern way.
With six years here, owner Rocky Marselli, Head Chef Jeff Syriani and Manager John Kerr have worked together and succeeded in making this place a memorable and regular spot to dine. Marché had a very smart interior, with dark woods, rich earth tones, sophisticated faux finished walls in dark greys and green metallics with a dense gold finish, crisp white linens, an open kitchen and floor to ceiling windows overlooking the outdoor patio with cheerful, red umbrellas.
Chef’s first tasting for us was the delicate Smoked Wild Columbia River Sturgeon tapenade. Followed by tastings of the Pork Terrine with local farm chicken livers and pistachio nuts, wood oven roasted Totten Inlet sweet mussels, with tomato and saffron vinaigrette and grilled bread and the mild Seared Sonoma Foie Gras with Mission figs, raspberries and brioche toasts. Was I in heaven?! The ‘Creative Growers’ heirloom tomato salad was delectable. This served with organic arugala, crumbled Rogue Creamery blue cheese and sherry vinaigrette. Was this menu designed for me?!
 |
French based and with a Northwest style, the cuisine at Marché is one Eugene's best. |
The entrees were the Cattail Creek Lamb braised with fennel, tomato and olives, served with cous cous and fresh spinach and the wood oven roasted Wild Oregon Chinook Salmon with summery beurre blanc, local haricot verts, mashed potatoes and Heirloom tomatoes concasée. We both said, ³Wow!² with the first taste of these perfectly cooked dishes.
Our wines in order accompanying were the Territorial Pinot Gris 2000, the Bergstrom Chardonnay, Silvan Ridge Grenache Rose 2002 and the Argyle Pinot Noir Reserve from the oldest winery in Oregon. Yes, wow!
The SunGlo Farm Peach Tarte Tartin with Creme Fraiche Ice Cream and the Summer Berry Short Cake with Champagne Sabayon and Berry Coulis were the icing on this amazing cake. Also offering lunch and Sunday Brunch with jazz, Marché is a way cool place...wish we lived nearer.
 |
One of the charming covered bridges in Cottage Grove. |
The following morning, after a delicious and light breakfast of fresh made muffins, scrambled egg and coffee at The Campbell House Inn, we were off to discover some of the nearby Cottage Grove’s covered bridges for ourselves.
Cottage Grove was recently named, for the second time, an All American City rich in historic and recreational offerings. The drive was easy and peaceful with hardly any traffic. The Visitors Association of Lane County provided us with a map to follow and find these bridges. Some of them date back to the 1920’s but some are much more recent (from the 70’s), and all are now unused to preserve them as much as possible. Some have been restored salvaging timbers from the old bridges. There are six to see in this area of Oregon. The Centennial Bridge, very accessible, right in downtown Cottage Grove was built in 1987 from recycled wood. This was a lovely, quiet way to spend a morning, which ended up at the gorgeous and impressive, hilltop King Estate Winery, in Lorane, just southwest of Eugene.
This 820 acre estate provides a mountain vineyard with elevations from 800 to 1,000 feet with cool, prevailing northwest winds that moderate temperatures there. Total production is 400,000 gallons. Tours were available and we enjoyed a brief tasting. I fell in love with their Pinot Gris and have enjoyed it ever since.
 |
The tasting room and wines of Silvan Ridge/Hinman Vineyards. |
Some Pinot Gris can be very oakey or smokey, too fumé for me so this was a delightful discovery. Bonefish Grill here sells it by the glass so that’s a favourite of mine when there for dinner. Of course King Estate also produce a tasty Pinot Noir.
Another nearby stop was to Silvan Ridge/Hinman Vineyards. A handsome, spacious tasting and banquet room were nestled atop a slight hill along with outdoor kitchens and an amphitheater. This was a wonderful place for concerts and wine and we were very sorry that our timing did not coincide with one! This small vineyard established in 1979 is maintained in the tradition of a small European winery. Their wines reminiscent of old world flavours, complex, colourful, aromatic and delicious.
 |
Chocolate delights from Fenton&Lee. |
On our way back to the Inn we stopped in Eugene at the delectable Fenton and Lee, Chocolatiers. This fine establishment has been going strong for 22 years, founded by M. Jenelle and now under the ownership of Desirée and Jonathan Rogers. Manager Beth Zuber was very knowledgeable and we very much, (really?!), enjoyed some chocolate tasting and, yes you guessed it, a cup of tea baby.
Fenton and Lee make exquisite creations for all occasions and have a strong local following as well as shipping mostly to the east coast, places like Dean and Deluca and high-end specialty stores in California.
The Campbell House Inn holds a wine tasting every dusk and in this we partook along with some other interesting guests. After which we drove up behind the Inn to Skinner Butte, a steep rising hill that afforded a spectacular overview of Eugene and then on a short way to the other side of Eugene for our dinner reservations at Adam’s Place.
This place known for its inventive martinis, each shaken or stirred 14 times to ensure perfection. The creative menu features the Pacific Northwest‘s freshest ingredients and has been named Eugene’s Most Romantic Restaurant in Northwest Best Places.
 |
Crisp Maple Leaf Duck Breast at Adam's Place |
The wine list was very varied and offered something to please everyone, as well as an extensive Reserve wine list by request. Also wine flights which we really enjoy and chose the ‘Rosé, (new style dry of course), from around the world’ to share plus the ‘California Merlot Masters Program.’
As we entered, great aromas assailed our sense of smell making me, ‘want whatever that is!’ The restaurant was an open space with a high ceiling, semi-formal, traditionally decorated and comfortable. It had an adjoining, much more contemporary and exciting looking jazz club, Luna, done in blond woods and greys and offering a Tapas menu.
Our server William was lovely and helpful, bringing us our first course of a delicious and different Five Onion and Fig Tart, with Walla Walla onions, white onions, leeks, shallots and chives baked with figs, topped with English Stilton, finished with a few drops of Rosemary oil and fig molasses. Also Adam’s Spanish Caesar salad, baby romaine tossed in Manchengo cheese dressing bound by a smokey paprika crouton and finished with thinly sliced Serrano ham. A great presentation and taste.
Our excellent entrees comprised the Crisped Maple Leaf Duck Breast served with jus and parslied spaetzle, (a German dumpling), and the Porcini Dusted Summer Run Pacific Halibut served atop truffled tagliatelle with French summer beans from JJ’s Farmers Co-op.
The Summer Berry Creme Brulée and the Summer Fruits, tossed in Limoncello, (great idea), with a rosemary perfumed Lemon Sorbet were divine. A full after dinner drink menu was also offered as well as a wide selection of Single Malts.
Owner and Executive Chef Adam Bernstein was obviously doing a successful job at his place as it was packed, with a few sittings.
Following another civilised breakfast together I made the most of our gorgeous suite for some R&R while Neal went off to Co-motion Cycle Factory.
Co-Motion has been making hand-crafted tandem and single bicycles since 1988. They have a reputation for innovation and have become the standard by which all other tandem brands are judged. Producing some of the finest bikes in the world, craftsmanship is their philosophy. Their commitment shows not only in the details of the product but in the people that work there as well.
Leaving Eugene and the luxurious Campbell House City Inn, we made our way along the 99W through farmland and then vineyards. We passed such well known wineries as Cherry Hill, Erath and Eola, to the town of McMinnville and following detailed instructions for ten minutes, we found our next destination for two nights, Youngberg Hill Vineyards and Inn.
What a delightful surprise to discover the inn sitting on the crest of Youngberg Hill, a huge property, with fabulous long-distance vistas from every aspect. As we approached through the gate and saw the house in the distance we spotted a deer close by. Well what a welcome. I was excited.
 |
Youngberg Hill Winery and Inn offers stunning vistas, hearty homemade breakfasts and superb wines |
 |
|
Closing the gate behind us, we learned very important to keep the enthusiastic and lovely black lab Bailey, safe. We completed the drive and arrived at the inn to a warm welcome from hands-on owner, Wayne Bailey, and later his wife, Nicolette.
We settled into our spacious and very comfortable guest room and headed out again to make the most of the setting.
Surrounded by rolling hills, ‘old world ambiance meets modern luxuries’ at Youngberg Hill. It truly is a private relaxing retreat, with a cosy library, expansive wrap around verandas and in-room comforts such as fireplaces and Jacuzzi tubs.
Youngberg’s award winning estate wine is hand-crafted from Pinot Noir grapes grown on their 12 acre vineyard. Nature provides a superb start with a moderate coastal climate. They craft their Pinot Noir in small lots and are happy to arrange private tastings and winemaker dinners. For details on their wine club, wines and how to order visit their web site at www.youngberghill.com.
This truly is a special place to hold a celebration from small to large, or just a calm, healing getaway. Be sure to enquire about their summer concert series. The Baileys also have a wonderful paved deck area overlooking the surrounding countryside and grapevines with an outdoor kitchen equipped to handle catering al fresco.What could beat that!
 |
Proprietress Deborah Chatelard of Bistro Maison getting ready for lift off with their wine flight of Pinot Noir. |
After enjoying a walk among the grapes and fields we readied ourselves for a short drive again into McMinnville for our dinner reserved at Bistro Maison. This was another great find. Very French and very enjoyable.
Chef owner Jean Jacques Chatelard and his wife Deborah have been here two years, in need of a change of pace from the well known Ferrier in Manhattan. So we greatly benefitted from their escape to little ol’ McMinnville! The restaurant is small but with a lovely spacious, vegetationsurrounded patio and an upstairs to hold 30 to 40 people.
Our choice was to dine on the patio and the evening was cool, bug-free and fresh. In August this was a treat compared with Florida. We just had to have the Soup de Poisson and the Pate d’Maison. Both excellent and very evocative of our much loved visits to France.
We then chose another favourite, a starter version of the Moules (mussels) et frites. ‘What larks Pip!’ This followed by the wonderful Coq au Vin and the special Halibut with oyster, blue and chanterelle mushrooms.
With all this we sipped and tasted a Pinot Noir flight (mais oui), a Novellum Reserve Cuvée Chardonnay, Vins de Pays d’Oc `01, a Patten Valley `03 Rose and a very good Viento Syrah, Cuvée ‘R’ Columbia Valley `01. Divine French style desserts were available as well as coffees and digestifs.
This was a great find in the middle of a small country town. Good luck JJ and Deborah! Enjoy your change of pace....not for long judging by the popularity of the Bistro! Just to mention close-by the Bistro, we found a very cool spot called Noah. A wine bar with light food in a terrific ‘home design’ type setting. Wish we’d had time to eat and drink there too.
Rumour had it that a herd of elk were afoot on Youngberg Hill and that if we arose at the crack of dawn we would surely see them. Only a herd of elk would get me up at the crack of dawn. Yes I was psyched and yes I was up at the allotted time. Creeping downstairs to the chilly dawn air, I had wrapped up warm, and walked the deck. I was crest-fallen to spy a distinct lack of elk or anything else live walking anywhere near the inn. Well who would be up that early! They were all still asleep!
Oh well breakfast time came soon enough and the fellow guests were very nice, all with different stories from their parts of the country. The fresh-made stuffed French toast, cheese potatoes, lemon muffins and fruit went a long way to revive me after my disappointment!
However our peace was rudely interrupted when someone asked us, did we know there was a hurricane heading for Florida? This was the start of our nightmare summer last, with Hurricane Francis gathering strength and speed bearing down towards Florida.
We were then off to McMinnville once more to get to know it a little better and to first visit the Evergreen Aviation Museum which houses the infamous ‘Spruce Goose.’
 |
The size of the Spruce Goose at Evergreen Aviation Museum is just amazing. |
The Museum and Educational Institute are dedicated to the life and memory of Captain Michael King Smith, son of the Founder Mr. Delford M. Smith. It’s a sad story of the loss of a beloved son, yet the Museum is a very special, lasting memorial to him and there for so many others to share.
The place plays a vital role in helping to preserve the history of aviation with early and war time aircraft displayed for all to see up close as well as Howard Hughes’ folly, (if you ask me!), the ‘flying boat.’ This plane really was something to behold and I felt a little better about it after I learned that it was half paid for by the man himself, not just Federal dollars!
The largest plane ever constructed it was to carry material and personnel trans-Atlantic in WWII. It only flew once in November 2, 1947. The wingspan is longer than a football field and the tail is as tall as an eight storey building. I won’t bore you with more intricate details, but if anyone is interested we can fax more aircraft and Spruce Goose details. Just give us a call at 366-7950.
From McMinnville’s humble beginnings in 1844 when a settler saw what a great area this was with its gentle Oregon breezes, water, wood and pastures available, it has grown and continues to expand while remaining sensitive to its history and the buildings associated with the past. Historic downtown McMinnville has many buildings of historic interest and a walking tour highlights these. On Thursdays there’s a farmers market held just off the main street and this is where we had some fun shopping for the picnic we’d decided to have on the grounds of the Youngberg Hill. We met some sweet locals who seemed to have plenty of time to pass the time of day and everywhere the atmosphere was friendly and relaxed. Among these were English B&B owners, Jack and Denise Seed, who had a very authentic little Inn called the Mattey House, (www.matteyhouse.com).
Our sunset picnic was wonderful. Just us atop the hill with expansive views all around. It did get rather chilly but with the good wines, rugs, candlelight and Neal reading me poetry... we toughed it out as the spot was so idyllic. As this was our last night we wanted to make the most of every minute in this great place. Our silent anxiety as to what would face us back in Florida with the hurricane, was not shared at this point!
We saw two deer en route. I was OK now, and we headed onto Portland.
After grateful farewells we left Youngberg Hill Vineyard and Inn, seeing two deer en route, oh I was OK now, and headed for Portland. The drive was pleasant enough, about an hour and a half and we noted that this was also a fertile area and big producer for hazelnuts.
We had a fabulous take off at the airport right over the huge meandering Columbia River and Valley and between Mount Hood and Mount St. Helens. What a wonderful send off from a great state. From the ocean and its majestic sea creatures and massive sand dunes to ride upon, to skiing in the accessible Cascade Mountains, to the picturesque vineyards and interesting towns with their museums, shops, galleries and restaurants touting the freshest, most delicious produce, this State of Oregon has it all. We can’t wait to return.
photos by Neal Finelli
