h! Philadelphia, we felt that brotherly love. The English peace-loving Quaker William Penn founded the city in 1682 and chose the name Philadelphia: “is come from Greek word, means brotherly love!” Ha! I LOVE that movie (My Big Fat Greek Wedding).
Peace-loving indeed. Yet peace is what Mr. Penn was loved and memorialized for, especially for his treaty with the Leni Lenape (Delaware). "I desire to gain your Love and Friendship by a kind, just and peaceable life," he wrote to them from England.
Philadelphia was also the nation’s capital from 1790-1800.
Our visit was in May 2005, my first and long awaited. It seems many Americans haven’t been there either, which surprised me. But we did find out that Philly is somewhat less frequented than it’s more famous and flashy neighbours New York City and Washington DC.
Well shame on us, Philly, a smaller, friendly city is definitely worth the time. Steeped in history but with all the modern trappings and choices of a city, from the waterfront and historic parks to the Avenue of the Arts and the Ben Franklin Parkway Museums this city has a lot to offer.
Philadelphia has 150 communities and areas of interest, hence it’s nickname ‘the city of neighbourhoods.’
SOME INTERESTING PHILLY FIRSTS:
(there are many more!) from www.gophila.com
• In 1682 William Penn laid out a simple grid pattern for the town, that included wide streets and five public squares. In that respect, Philadelphia was the first "planned city" in North America.
• Philadelphia is home to the nation's first public grammar school, now known as the William Penn Charter School, founded in 1689.
• America's first life insurance company, The Presbyterian Minister's Fund, was opened in Philadelphia in 1717.
• America's first botanical garden, Bartram's Gardens, opened in 1728.
• Philadelphia is home to the nation's first public library - the Free Library of Philadelphia - founded by Benjamin Franklin in 1731.
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The Aveune of the Arts
with the William Penn Statue atop City Hall |
• The first volunteer fire department, the Union Fire Company, was founded in Philadelphia in 1736 by Benjamin Franklin.
• The Pennsylvania Hospital, founded by Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Bond, opened its doors in 1751 - the first hospital in America.
In addition, Philadelphia is home to the nation's first medical school, first children's hospital, first cancer hospital, first eye hospital, first nursing school and first dental school!
• The concept of lightning being electricity was discovered by Benjamin Franklin in 1752 when he was able to draw lightning from the clouds by means of a kite.
• The first flag of the United States was sewn in Philadelphia in 1777 by Betsy Ross.
• The first university in America, the University of Pennsylvania, founded in 1779, traces its roots to a tuition-free school founded in 1740.
• The Pennsylvania Bank, the first American public bank, opened in 1780. It was later renamed the Bank of North America, the first incorporated bank chartered by the Continental Congress.
• The first stock exchange in the United States was the Philadelphia Stock Exchange, which organized in 1790.
• The first mint in the United States opened in Philadelphia in 1792. For the first time standardized coins were issued for the new nation.
• The first municipal water system in the country, the Philadelphia Water Works, began operation in 1799.
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One of Philly’s fabulous murals |
• The first art school and art museum in America, the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, was founded in Philadelphia in 1805.
• The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society, organized in 1827, is the oldest continually operating horticultural society in the United States. The Philadelphia Flower Show, first held in 1829 and sponsored by the Society, was the first large flower show in the country.
• In 1874 the Philadelphia Zoo became the first zoo to open in the United States.
• The first World's Fair held in the new world was held in Philadelphia in 1876 to mark the centennial of the United States.
• The PSFS Building in downtown Philadelphia became the nation's first modern skyscraper (notably fully air-conditioned) when it opened its doors in 1932.
• The world's first computer, ENIAC, was built at the University of Pennsylvania in 1946.
RITTENHOUSE SQUARE B&B
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A haven of privacy and elegance with luxurious comfort, this beautifully renovated and refined 1900's Philadelphia carriage house make it an internationally sought after oasis. |
Our first stop was to check into our gorgeous B&B, The Rittenhouse Square Bed and Breakfast. Situated on a tiny quiet side street off the well-known Rittenhouse Square it is within walking distance of many of the city's world class restaurants and cafes, museums, unique shops and historical attractions.
A haven of privacy and elegance with luxurious comfort, this beautifully renovated and refined 1900's Philadelphia carriage house make it an internationally sought after oasis.
The very welcoming and smart lobby dressed in sun yellow English striped wallpaper and sleek black marble floors set the tone. A member of the Select Registry Inns, the small scale mansion was beautifully decorated with vibrant colours, handsome furnishings, and antiques.
With just ten distinctively deluxe guest rooms, the entire Philadelphia Rittenhouse Square facility often becomes the exclusive temporary residence of an entourage of out of town VIP's or business people searching for a tranquil, yet first-class, cosmopolitan location to rest while attending an event in Philadelphia.
The cozy, cellar cafe features a continental breakfast each morning offering complimentary artisan breads and pastries from the well-known Le Bus Bakery, alongside fresh fruit and some healthier items. The room also functions as a private meeting room when requested.
We felt pampered with the plush robes, Frette towels, marble bathrooms, Penhaligon toiletries, triple sheeting with nightly turndown service, phone and 100 channel cable TV in every room, computer workstations with internet access, attention to detail plus 24 hour concierge service.
Guests can also enjoy a complimentary glass of wine and snack reception each evening in the lobby. The staff here were really great and most helpful and although the place was first class there was a relaxed and friendly atmosphere.
It was very close to the tranquil Rittenhouse Square Park, where many Philadelphians come for a little tranquility and greenery.
CITY TOUR
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Philly the city that loves you back |
From here we made our way to the Philadelphia Trolley Works City Tour. They actually picked us up at the B&B to then join the trolley. Wow this really is the city of brotherly luuve! This was a thoroughly enjoyable overview of the city, hop on-hop off style which we always recommend when first arriving at any city to get a feel for the place. We did ‘hop off’ at the Rodin Museum, a little away from the main downtown area, housed in this small privately owned magnificent building. This is the largest collection of Rodin sculptures and drawings outside of Paris, including The Thinker.
Back at the B&B, we enjoyed a winetasting and were able to meet with and enjoy talking to Donna Schorr from the Greater Philadelphia Tourism office. It was great to meet her as she had helped put this visit together with us. We put the world to rights over our wine as we made plans to make the most of the city.
BLISS
We were then off for our dinner reservation at Bliss. Bliss is a newer and exciting restaurant/bar, featuring a menu that reflects a world of culinary inspiration. It is the solo debut of award-winning Chef/Owner Francesco Martorella, who was the executive chef at Brasserie Perrier, The Ritz Carlton and Avenue B. His wife Suzanne oversees the front of this 78 seat restaurant, with 30 more for private dining upstairs. Its two storey dining room was very impressive in cool blue hues and blond woods with a huge tryptich photograph of rippling water in the same hues filling one wall. Gorgeous, and soothing.
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Tasty treats from Bliss |
Bliss style is contemporary, cool hip and minimal, offering American dishes, for example a pan-seared sirloin with potato puree gratin and shallot merlot glaze, as well as Asian-inspired food such as sweet and sour crispy red snapper and stir-fried red chili prawns.
We received great service from our server John and our first tastes were the Tuna Carpaccio, Wasabi Caviar, Ginger-Lime dressing, the opposing textures were delicious and the Shrimp and Jumbo Lump Crab Spring Rolls with Tamarind dipping sauce. These were a terrific start along with a glass of Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc.
Chef Francesco also sent us a tasting of the delectable Seared Sea Scallops, with Crispy shrimp dumplings and Miso Sauce.
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Cool jazz at Zanzibar Blue |
The second course was the Asian Spiced Peking Duck Breast, Leg Confit, Sweet Potato Purée and Port sauce, with the two types of duck. This is one of their most popular dishes, no wonder! Also the ‘special’ Pan-Roasted Snapper with Sauteed Shrimp and Thai Sweet Rice that was a violet colour. Wow! All as good as it looked and paired with glasses of a Cotes du Rhone and a Sonoma Pinot Noir.
The dessert menu was short and to the delicious point! Our choices were tastes of the Fresh Raspberry Clafouti, the Chocolate Chip Bliss ice Cream Sandwich and the Blueberry Cobbler with Vanilla Ice Cream. Worth coming to Philly for!
We left Bliss in search of some music and found some jazz happenin’ at Zanzibar Blue nearby.
WARWICK HOTEL
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The Radisson Plaza Warwick Hotel’s welcoming entrance on Locust Street |
After a very nice breakfast at the Rittenhouse we checked-out, regrettably as they were fully booked for this Memorial weekend, and were off to check into the nearby Warwick Hotel. Although not looking forward to a chain hotel, not our usual choice, we were very pleasantly surprised by this smaller more intimate seeming, bustling and friendly city hotel.
The Radisson Plaza-Warwick Hotel Philadelphia is rich in tradition, and has been serving Philadelphians and guests for many years. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Radisson Plaza-Warwick Hotel was originally constructed in 1926 and features fashionable English Renaissance architecture. Transformed to meet the uncompromising standards of today's travelers, the 545-room Philadelphia Hotel is located just off the world-renowned Rittenhouse Square, the city's most prestigious residential, commercial and business district.
Each of the spacious, comfortable and beautifully furnished guest rooms and suites at the Radisson Plaza-Warwick Hotel Philadelphia are full of convenient amenities including a large desk, telephones serviced by dual phone lines, voice messaging and coffee service. Visitors who stay on the Plaza Club Level enjoy extra services such as a complimentary continental breakfast, bottled water, evening hors d'oeuvres and beverages, and use of the Club Lounge, with sofas, chairs, large-screen television, and dedicated Club Concierge.
The hotel is full of services designed to enhance each visit. A few such touches include a dedicated business center and valet parking, also an on-site hair salon and coffee shop. A fitness center, your choice of complimentary daily newspaper and concierge also help guests to feel at home while at the Radisson Plaza-Warwick Hotel Philadelphia.
The Warwick Hotel is home to three restaurants, each with its own unique flavor. The sophisticated Prime Rib Restaurant, which serves seafood as well, is open for dinner only. The contemporary Circles off the Square Restaurant and Bar is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, while Capriccio's Cafe is the place to grab a coffee, sandwich, or dessert in a casual setting any time of day.
A variety of function space can accommodate from 4 to 400 people. A well-trained meetings and banquet staff provide personal assistance to event planners.
CITY TAVERN RESTAURANT
We then spent some time antique shopping and walking on Antique Row and took the trolley to the Old City Tavern for lunch.
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The City Tavern's famed restaurateur Walter Staib |
When John Adams arrived in Philadelphia in August of 1774, to attend the First Continental Congress, he was greeted by leading citizens and immediately taken to the tavern he would call "the most genteel tavern in America." The tavern Adams referred to, City Tavern, was not yet a year old and was already caught up in momentous events. A few months earlier, Paul Revere had ridden up to the Tavern with the news of the closing of the port of Boston by the British Government.
Some of the most influential men in the colonies gathered in Philadelphia to decide a common response to this and other "intolerable acts." For the next decade, City Tavern would be a familiar sight to the leading figures of the American Revolution.
The Tavern was built, "for the convenience and credit of the city," by a group of eminent Philadelphians who felt that their hometown deserved a fine tavern which reflected its status as the largest, most cosmopolitan city in British North America. When the Tavern was completed in 1773, it was one of the most elegant buildings in the city.
Situated on Second Street, a main thoroughfare, City Tavern was constructed in the latest architectural style and stood three stories high. Inside, it boasted several large club rooms, two of which, when joined together, make a spacious room of nearly fifty feet in length, for public entertainment.
There were “several commodious lodging rooms, for the accommodation of strangers, two large kitchens, and every other convenience for the purpose." In addition, there was a bar and also a coffee room, which was supplied with British and American newspapers and magazines. However after an illustrious three-quarters of a century, the tavern was partially destroyed by fire, then it was demolished in 1854 in favour of new brownstone stores!
In 1948 Congress designated the historic area downtown Philadelphia as Independence National Historic Park and thankfully commissioned the historically accurate reconstruction of the City Tavern. In 1976 after many years of research and development the replica was completed in time for the Bicentennial Celebration.
In 1994, restaurateur Walter Staib took over as operator of the Tavern and has faithfully recreated the cuisine, ambience and experience unique to 18th Century America.
It was a special place and I loved being there. Our lunchtime was during a balmy, sunny day and we sat out on the porch overlooking the large garden area. All the staff are kitted out in authentic Colonial clothes. This along with the spare furniture, wood floors and pewter-ware set the scene for a taste of those early founding days.
Our server Dave Sears was excellent as was Manager Donald Seymour. Both took good care of us and made us feel very welcome.
Our lunch began with the Sally Lun tea bread and Thomas Jefferson biscuit plate. Wow, does that set the scene! Smoked Salmon and Trout followed with the Salmagundi, an 18th Century classic: fresh garden greens, ham, smoked turkey, smoked chicken, salami, cheddar cheese, hard-boiled egg, olives and a choice of dressings. After this hearty lunch we shared the ‘panacier’ - a strawberry butter cake. Other temptations were available all prepared daily by Pastry Chef Christian Galli, including a tray of Bassetts Ice Creams (established here in 1861), from which to choose.
Thomas Jefferson and George Washington Ales are available along with many others, and liqueurs including Madeira. This place is a must when you come to Philadelphia. Thanks to Walter and his wife Gloria for taking the time and considerable effort to manifest a bygone but unforgettable era. Cookbooks and recipes are offered on their web site citytavern.com.
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The charming Elfreth’s Alley |
Around the corner from the Tavern is another Philadelphia landmark, the original Bookbinders established in 1865 and recently reopened. Famous for its seafood and also steeped in history. We walked along the waterfront as far as we could, then via busier, noisier streets, to the very famous Elfreth’s Alley est. 1713.
There is no other neighborhood like this tiny Elfreth's Alley. As you walk down the Alley, you can see that families, professionals and other residents have chosen to keep the Alley's past alive with their presence. Today the Association and residents work hand-in-hand with the Philadelphia Historical Commission to preserve this unique American treasure.
Through seven decades as a museum and preservation organisation, Elfreth's Alley has relied on the generosity of many individuals to preserve the museum, the homes and educate the public about the achievements, character and legacy of this community.
The Elfreth's Alley Museum, open 320 days a year for guided tours, also features a comfortable garden and quaint gift shop with wonderful Colonial memorabilia and handcrafted gifts. The houses are minute and a reminder of how much smaller we used to be! This is another historic place well worth taking the time to visit.
We continued on to the United States Mint hoping to take a tour but were very disappointed to find it had closed at 4pm. Oh well next time A visit to the Reading Market was our next stop. A fantastic variety of fresh foods and crafts are offered here.
MATYSON’S
Our dinner that evening was reserved at Matyson’s, 37 South19th Street. Chef/Owner Matt Spector and his wife Sonjia, originally from California, have had their place in full swing ever since opening two years ago.
The long, narrow dining room, with high ceilings was cozy and inviting and decorated in dark woods, dark beige walls with a narrow strip of angled mirror juxtaposed high on those walls. Spice coloured accents and candlelight made it very welcoming.
Our goat cheese and caramelised onion empañadas, with baby spinach and beet relish, (really good and looked like little samosas), and the red onion soup were also a great start.
Server Becky took care of us with her fast and efficient service bringing our entree choices next. The braised Pacific Halibut was very fresh, served with artichokes, asparagus, tiny tomatoes, a very healthy meal in a light chardonnay broth full of delicious flavours. The Rack of Lamb was a special, with feta cheese, eggplant frittas and figs, succulent and innovative. Yum.
To follow we had the apple pie special and the divine raspberry rhubarb crisp with vanilla ice cream. No fuss but excellent food, at no fuss prices. Continued success to you all at Matyson’s.
After a very nice breakfast in the hotel cafe we shopped in the city center and enjoyed the mild weather sharing a picnic lunch in Rittenhouse Square.
With much pleading and several visits to the ticket office at the Merriam Theatre downtown, we managed to secure tickets to the very enjoyable Billy Joel musical, “Movin’ Out.” This was its last week showing here, so we were very lucky. As many of you have recently seen at the Van Wezel, it was a fantastic show, showcasing the fine songwriting of Billy Joel and expressive choreography by Twyla Tharp.
TANGERINE
Our final and very memorable evening was spent at Tangerine, right near the Delaware River, in the ‘very hip’ old city area, especially at night.
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Sumptuous, sexy
interior of Tangerine |
The city's leading restaurateur Stephen Starr has created one of country's most sensational restaurants Tangerine, located at 232 Market. The seriously different and refreshing restaurant has received critical acclaim from newspapers and magazines such as USA Today, Food and Wine, Bon Appetit, In Style, Conde Nast Traveler, Metropolitan Home and Philadelphia Magazine.
"Tangerine offers a beautiful place to enjoy exquisite food and have a great time. We are thrilled with the enthusiastic response from people," says Starr, who creates restaurant concepts that are incomparable to anything the city has ever known.
Starr re-commissioned New York based David Schefer Design, who created Tangerine's stunning atmosphere of shimmering lights and flowing fabrics, to bring the same exotic mood of the restaurant's dining room into the restyled lounge.
Opened in 1999 it has been buzzing since. With a dark and sexy club atmosphere, rich fabrics lining the walls, great architecture defining three spaces, candles everywhere including a wall of little niches just for them, low ottomans and benches all amalgamating to produce a wonderful moody and inviting ambience. Not only was the interior superior but so was the food. No wonder it’s still going strong.
Executive Chef Todd Fuller and Kevin, our excellent server took great care of us and helped steer us through the very innovative and interesting Mediterranean/Moroccan menu. With some delicious Voignier and a Sauvignon Blanc, we enjoyed their fresh pita and some fruit and nut breads. This followed by the delicate and tender warm octopus salad, with haricots vert and a lemon-grass vinaigrette, plus the tuna tartare, spicy lemon, grilled salad and a rosemary flatbread. This was a Moroccan feast using familiar ingredients exotically executed.
We tasted the Mediterranean spiced bronzino, like seabass but spiced with cumin, coriander and cayenne, wow! The the divine duck breast, pistachio crusted, with seared foie gras and poached pear and the roasted filet mignon, fabulously paired with a gorgonzola-potato tart, asparagus and a mushroom-red wine jus. With these we enjoyed some Sangiovese, Chilean Merlot and Cabernet crushed grapes.
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Pics by Neal
‘Brown-eyed Soul Man’ |
Pastry Chef Jill Van Duyne sent us a unbelievable explosion of taste in the form of the Vanilla Yogurt Fondue, a lemon curd, warm spiced honey drizzle, cookies and seasonal fruit and the Fallen Lemon Souffle with pistachio brittle, a blood orange reduction and pistachio ice cream. Superb!
As I write this article many months later I clearly remember Tangerine, a wonderful place and all its flavours. I wish I lived nearer.
When, not if, you get to Philadelphia, it’s a must, along with the National Constitution Center even if you have time for nothing else.
Philly, a truly Great Find!
