ast November we had the pleasure of experiencing our first cruise. Not the usual full blown cruise you might think, but a small upscale, low-key cruise focused on food and wine on San Francisco Bay and in the surrounding wine country.

Yes, it was as good as it sounds and introduced to us by the very popular and well-run Landings Travel, in The Landings, Sarasota. Owners Jon and Kathleen Sutter have linked up with Taste to promote their fine vacations and they all sound wonderful.

Our ports of call began at the dock in Redwood City, just south of San Francisco, where we boarded the ship The Yorktown Clipper to Napa Valley, Sausalito and San Francisco. Shore excursions with guides, all meals, some wines and transportation were included.

Boarding was accomplished smoothly, with our luggage delivered to our cabins, although not before the exact time stated. The docks have no comfortable facilities so don’t plan to arrive too early.

We were all given a warm welcome aboard with a champagne reception to meet and greet Captain Bergman, Cruise Director, Donald Leadbetter, staff and fellow passengers. Emphasis was placed on a relaxed atmosphere and the ship was only half full at 67 passengers so there was a lot of room and comfort to be enjoyed by all. No-nonsense and not very attractive safety drills were followed by orientation advice and meeting more crew, Assistant Director, Jennifer Chapman and Hotel Manager Sabrina Cortes.

It might occur to you that St. Louis, Missouri is a rather funny home base for a cruise line whose fleet is intended to sail both coasts of North America and the Intracoastal Waterway, and then spend the winter season among the lesser visited Virgin, Leeward, Windward and Grenadine Islands of the Caribbean, among other destinations. The reason: Clipper Cruise Line is owned by INTRAV, a major travel company based in this city. The St. Louis locale also provides a fertile territory for Clipper's recruitment of its well-scrubbed, young all-American shipboard staff who offer the kind of personable service that's hard to find. In 1999, Clipper and INTRAV were purchased by Kuoni Travel, a large Swiss firm. In 2006 the company became part of First Choice Holidays, a U.K. company specializing in adventure travel.

The Yorktown Clipper docked in San Francisco

Founded in 1982, Clipper Cruise Line has expanded its operations and today has programs reaching from the Orinoco River to Greenland, Alaska, Antarctica, New Zealand and the Orient. The company's two flag ships were the 100-passenger Nantucket Clipper, built in 1984, and the 138-passenger Yorktown Clipper, built in 1988, both designed with a shallow draft and easy maneuverability necessary to reach secluded areas beyond the reach of larger vessels and mainstream tourism.

Both vessels were sold to Cruise West in January 2006 leaving the company with its international adventures ships: The 122-passenger Clipper Adventurer, an expedition vessel that cruises in Western Europe, Greenland, the Canadian Arctic and Antarctica. The more luxurious 128-passenger Clipper Odyssey was purchased in 1999 and cruises on Pacific voyages, stopping in New Zealand, Australia, China, Japan and the North Pacific.

Some guests on our cruise had spent the previous night in San Francisco to recover from their long journeys. This proved a very good idea if they opted for the hot-air balloon excursion over Napa the very next day. Always starting at the crack of dawn (or earlier), hot air ballooning is not for late risers! Lucky us to have experienced the thrill several times before, we opted for a later start!

Life on-board a vessel has a different feel and we awoke to the strange noises of ship activity and muffled speaker system announcements. The view was so serene, overlooking the early morning fog-cloaked marshes on the outskirts of Napa Valley. Not a building in sight, only nature. This was a good start!

(You might be confused as to how a boat is able to make its way into Napa Valley. The captain was able to snuggly fit into a convenient slot on the Napa River, the southern end of the lush Napa Valley.)

Our cabin was tiny but sufficient for our every need. The wooden decks surrounding the ship enabled brisk walks and fresh air. There was a very pleasant library area, within the spacious lounge with large window views on three sides. Several groups were celebrating a special occasion, they kept to their own parties, a few foursomes and several couples and friends together comprised our happy party.

Along with Neal and myself we made good friends with the fun Blayne and Lila who responded through Taste, also from Sarasota. We’d met them on one of our Progressive Dinners previously.

Most of the meals were aboard the ship in the formal dining room. All the menus were very well put together and the choices were great, including the option to have half each of more than one entree to try! The staff on the Yorktown Clipper were fun, relaxed and profes sional, what more could you ask. Our favourite was a particular luncheon. Comprising a hot platter which we shared, Jumbo Shrimp sauteed in garlic and deglazed with white wine, with a butternut risotto over a bed of Fennel Slaw and a Caramelized Onion and Boursin Omelet. Simple and delicious. A sample of one evening’s menu was as follows: soup of the day, maybe a lobster bisque, then a salad selection, Sole Française or Braised Duckling, or a pasta dish, a vegetarian entree was also available. Desserts from Crepe Suzette to Bitter Chocolate Tart to fresh fruits and a cheese board followed.

Daily news sheets and itineraries were slipped under our cabin doors during every night. Each start to the day offered a very nice continental breakfast buffet, including Smoked Salmon, coffees teas and juices in the informal lounge deck. This accompanied by Director Donald going over the daily activities planned and on-board historian Annabelle Grady interesting us with local anecdotes and information.

NAPA VALLEY AND THE CIA

CIA student chefs¡ preparing lunch at the Greystone Culinary Institute of America

Our first tour was to join an awaiting coach, after a leisurely breakfast and when the rather bleary eyed but happy balloonists had returned! We drove off through the Napa vineyard country, passing many familiar wineries, to the CIA, (Culinary Institute of America), now housed in the magnificent former Greystone building that was the Christian Brothers Winery. After a decade of planning and development the CIA was opened at Greystone in August 1996. The whole place is well worth experiencing. It is just like a college atmosphere, with young chefs from all over learning their trade. It also includes herb gardens, a wonderful restaurant, and fabulous culinary treasures and books to be found in the gift shop.

Our lunch there was equally wonderful. Set in the vaulted ceilinged, large space with solid stone walls and warm earth tone decor colours, we enjoyed every minute.

Chef James Cornwell served a delectable array of “Today’s Temptations,” small bites, ‘inspired by the culinary artisans, farmers and foragers, who bring their tempting seasonal products to the kitchen door every day.’ Only in California! Excellent.

The first course choices were, Forni-Brown-Welsh Baby Greens, with Laura Chenel Goat Cheese Croutons and Golden Balsamic Vinaigrette or a Butternut Squash Soup, Peekytoe Crab and Brandied Cream. Mains comprised Steamed Pacific Halibut Fillet, with young ginger wilted greens, black mushrooms, jasmine rice and chili-soy broth and Sauteed Chicken Supreme, with Autumn vegetable

Dessert was a Classic Creme Brulée with assorted biscotti and a Molten Chocolate Lava, with vanilla bean ice cream and caramel wines were the Greystone Sauvignon Blanc, 2003 and Zinfandel 2002.

I trust our foodie readers enjoy these menus I always include in our articles. I get many ideas and inspirations from chefs’ creations and combinations. Hoping you all do too!

Our visit was completed by a rather elementary demonstration by a student chef for a Crab Napoleon and some other puff pastry ideas.

	A visit to Rutherford Hill Winery was next and an overview of their operations and vast, fantastic cave cellars set in the lovely hillside. More pleasant touring through vineyards ensued, leading us to the fabulous Auberge du Soleil for a reception for us with appetisers and wine tasting, al fresco of course. DIVINE!
This special Inn we’ve looked forward to seeing certainly lived up to its reputation. Perched on a vibrant green hillside overlooking the valley of vineyards, set among tall and wispy trees, the Inn is a collection of small, luxurious villas nestled on the 33 acre grounds. With an emphasis on the outdoors, all are decorated, as are the main areas, with nature and soothing in mind.
	The olive-hued carpet, inscribed with an olive branch design, stone wall sconces, natural cedar ceilings and soft sand-coloured walls combine to make it a very inviting environment. The views from the multiple French Doors invite you onto the several decks to soak up the air and atmosphere. A relaxed and friendly evening ensued on-board with dinner and much socialising, getting to know fellow travellers.

COPIA AND WINERIES

The next morning we were off by trusty coach again to the Stag’s Leap district, one of the smallest yet renowned wine growing regions in napa, Silverado Winery. A tour followed and tasting of their ’03 Sauvignon Blanc, ‘04 Chardonnay, 02’ Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet. This was a beautiful setting with some lovely wines enjoyed.

COPIA was our next stop. The American Center for Wine Food and the ts is a cultural museum dedicated to the distinctively American character of wine and food in close association with the arts and humanities. It was a huge, pleasing modern space surrounded by colourful organic gardens of fruit, vegetables, flowers and herbs. Offering food, wine and gardening workshops, the museums exhibits and the Julia Childs’ restaurant ‘Julia’s Kitchen,’ it’s a mecca for visitors, young and older and locals alike. The museum was a light but charming look into American gadgets, kitchens and food memorabilia through the decades. A mini culinary Epcot!

Lunch was included at Julia’s Kitchen. Another fun social gathering of our sailor group. Fresh, fresh COPIA garden greens, radishes, cucumbers and Verjus vinaigrette, pan-roasted chicken with chard, baby carrots, black barley and caramelized onion jus, followed by a delectable lemon citrus pudding was very much enjoyed by all, along with a couple of light Napa wines.

We then visited the very smart Domaine Carneros. A French-style Chateau, designed after the Taittinger-owned Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne. Atop a hill surveying the surrounding rolling hills of Carneros and San Pablo Bay this is a truly beautiful spot. A delightful sparkling wine tasting was enjoyed by all as well as the excellent gift store. Domaine Carneros stands alone as the only sparkling wine producer exclusively using Carneros grapes for their super-premium ‘methode-champenoise.’ Pinot Noir makes up the majority of the blend, with slightly less Chardonnay and minor amounts of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier. All grapes are hand-picked and gently pressed. Aging cellars, nestled in the hillside, provide the perfect cool environment for the wine to develop slowly in the bottle.

Prior to dinner we were joined by Brent Trojan, Wine Educator for the Napa Valley wine Train for a presentation on food and wine pairing and the ‘umami’ factor! Dinner later and laughs were had by all aboard the Yorktown Clipper.

SAUSALITO

Overnight we gently sailed to our next destination from the Napa River to busier and more interesting, Sausalito. Awaking and breakfasting to cooler, refreshing fine weather once again, the views into San Francisco Bay were captivating. We cruised by distant San Pablo Bay and the ‘Mothball Fleet’ of Merchant Marine naval and other sea vessels kept at anchor in the Bay as museum pieces. Sausalito Marina clustered with hundreds of tiny, and not so tiny, boats and house boats was our mooring for the next night.

	Duck Breast prepared by guest Chef Tracy Des Jardins of Jardinere, shown with Cruise Director Donald Leadbetter

Another convivial lunch was followed by a winding tour to Muir Woods, a National Monument. We love this place and it’s so accessible from the road. Nature made easy! More crowded than our previous visit years ago, we still loved being in the quiet, serene, dappled, dank, dense wood.

We were then all dropped off in Sausalito if we so chose, for some shopping, galleries and walking. Always good to be there in the quaint, well-kept little artist colony town, the northern terminus of the iconic Golden Gate Bridge.

Dinner was prepared and served on-board by visiting Chef Tracy Des Jardins of well-known San Francisco restaurant Jardinere. We very much liked the Carrot Soup with Maine Lobster, Celery Root Pomegranite Salad, Loin of Lamb with fennel Haricots Verts and Picholine Olive. A tangy Abbaye de Belloc natural rind raw sheep’s milk cheese and a divine Apple Galette with a green apple sorbet was the finale! All local house wines aboard were included plus others were for purchase with an extensive wine list.

SAN FRANCISCO

Friday, our last day, saw us morning-bound for San Francisco Bay and docks. What a beautiful cruise and weather too. Passing upscale Tiburon teetering along the undulating shoreline, under the amazing Golden Gate Bridge we docked gracefully along the pier.

Today our coach tour took us all around San Francisco with our terrific guide of the week Linda, and up to the Presidio and stunning Palace of Fine Arts and the Golden Gate Bridge entrance with its superb vistas. We also gained entrance to the much talked about new de Young Fine Arts Museum, especially its architecture! A great morning was topped by lunch on the ship with guest Dessert Pastry Chef Alice Medrich.

Alice opened her revolutionary pastry shop, in Berkeley, CA in the 70s. It changed the face of desserts in America. Her books have garnered awards, Cocolat, which was named the IACP/Julia Childs best First Book and the James Beard Foundation Cookbook of the Year, as was Chocolate and the Art of Low-Fat Desserts. Her dessert for us was a superb rich seven layer chocolate and nut creation.

Our afternoon was free to roam San Francisco. At this time we chose to leave the ship and spend a night in San Francisco, instead of sailing back to Redwood City where we’d have to leave the ship very early morning, our flight being very late that following night. This was a far more civilised plan!

Our next stop in contrast, was the bustling, crowded and noisy Boulevard, for a taste of Nancy Oakes’ new American food where the side dishes are as important as the main event These choices, as well as a carefully selected wine list, make this a very popular place.

This brick-walled bistro with its arched ceilings and dark wood beams was an ‘it’ place to be. After our substantial appetisers, we just opted for dessert and coffee here. The Boulevard Trio comprised a Manjari Toffee Crunch, Carrot Cake with Carrot Sherbet and Vanilla Ice Cream and Sweet White Corn Ice Cream with Hot Fudge and Carmel Corn. Just love those California imaginative fresh ingredients! A perfect dessert for sharing.

So we parted company, saying warm farewells and made our way downtown where we stayed the night. A relaxed day with more shopping followed and a wonderful morning was spent in the Ferry Building enjoying the vibrant sights and sounds, tastes and wares of the fantastic market there. We also saw Peter Mayle(A Year in Provence) book signing his new novel Confessions of a French Baker. We even made a quick visit to the Museum of Modern Art, in the heart of the city. Never let it be said that we don’t make the most of a trip!

We had very much enjoyed this small scale cruise with its emphasis on quality food and wines. The tours were great, as was the staff and we’d love to use Intrav again. See their web site for much more in adventures and cruises.