Great Finds in
Vail Colorado
By Vanessa Shaw-Finelli
 
Vail’s ski runs take on a different look in the summer.

fter so many years of hearing about Vail and how pretty and popular a place this was, we were finally here to see for ourselves. Having been to Austria it was a bit spooky seeing this village replica in the middle of the USA. But beautiful it was, and flowers were everywhere, enhancing the ambience. Vail spends a million dollars a year planting and maintaining them! Vail was tiny, and every place accessible, easily walkable without traffic and had a light-hearted, easy-going atmosphere. Life, and dress, were much more casual than I had imagined. I did not need the more formal clothes that I had packed, even for dinner, those were for the city I learned!

In the 1800’s the Ute Indians and pioneer hunters roamed this area. Today it is hard to imagine that this prestigious resort of Vail began in WW ll as an alpine boot camp! A few miles south of Vail, Camp Hole was the training ground for the Army’s elite 10th Mountain Division bound for fighting in the Italian Alps.

Pete Siebert served in the 10th Mountain Division...his love of skiing constantly guiding his life choices. Determined to create an Austrian-style ski resort, in 1962, Vail Resort was born as a result. Word soon spread regarding this new ski resort, celebrities and politicians as well as the wealthy came to visit. Energy was high and for many it was life-changing. People left their careers, bringing their families to relocate permanently to this attractive place. The air was clean and the land was boundless. It was also the days of land and lifetime ski passes costing $10,000.

New structures appeared all over Vail, from homes to boutiques, lodges to restaurants­this was a pioneer’s dream. Milwaukee-based architect, Fitzhugh Scott was a key player in the design of the European village and in preserving the view corridors that today are recognized around the world. As a result of his work there, his family came to join him in being one of the first homesteaders on Gore Creek. Fitzhugh’s love of Vail never diminished. He created a lasting landmark in the Vail Athletic Club, overlooking Gore Creek and included a penthouse residence with breathtaking views of the village and mountain.

The Vail Mountain Lodge’s stylish rooms and food to match at Terra Bistro

For the past 24 years the Vail Athletic Club, recently renamed, Vail Mountain Lodge & Spa, has matured into being a premier destination hotel and spa, perfectly positioned to provide a sense of place yet relaxed, romantic and unpretentious. It is situated right in the heart of Vail, at a peaceful end of the village away from the more lively bars, yet within a short distance of them, on the burbling Gore Creek.

The veranda to our spacious, handsome suite was near rustling, tinkling Aspen tree top levels and delightfully overlooked the Creek. Under the able General Management of Chad Zigler and his friendly staff, the lodge was relaxed yet efficient and also offers residences to share in the upscale, healthy Vail lifestyle.

At 8,150ft. with average temperatures of 70ºF and  some showers and cool nights, the weather here is a very attractive alternative to the summer heat elsewhere.

At 6PM we were scheduled to meet up with Vail PR expert Dede Dixon of Peeples Ink, for dinner at Terra Bistro within the Vail Mountain Lodge. This was very relaxing after a long day driving and sight-seeing. We always take advantage of the first night in our hotel’s restaurant if possible.

Terra Bistro was striking with its two storey wall of windows, black ash furniture and white linens. The starters comprised the Warm Pistachio Crusted Goat Cheese with crispy pears and pomegranate syrup and the Thai Beef Lettuce Wraps with toasted peanuts and chili dipping sauce. This latter was a full of flavour and delicious, as was the goat cheese. The pears were wafer thin and baked to a crisp, an excellent combination.

Our main course dishes were the perfectly cooked, moist, Pork Chop basted with green chili and coriander and a (corn infused) apple-tomatillo tamale with asparagus (my choice), and the flown in fresh, Alaskan Halibut, with sweet corn succotash, chipotle barbecue sauce and mango salsa. Mountain Mexican? It worked, whatever! The presentation was expert as were the tastes. We all enjoyed different wines by the glass to complement. Executive Chef Kevin Nelson and his staff, with Kasey taking good care of us, all did a great job.

EAGLE’S NEST

The next morning, after a quick, casual, but just right, breakfast buffet in the hotel, we were off to the mountain for more exploration. Vail operates  the largest free public transportation system in the country, (hmmm the Anna Maria Island Trolley may challenge that now!). It runs small buses right along the main road through Vail and back in the winter. However, we wanted the exercise and very much enjoyed the boutiques and sights along the way to Lionshead, the next village resort to the Eagle Bahn, the only operating Gondola right up Vail Mountain to Eagle’s Nest at over 10,000 ft. We loved the ride up and the views of the surrounding mountains with their ski runs scoring their sides with smooth, green paths, as well as our hiking up there. We were pleased the altitude didn’t affect us and were very lucky the weather was fine for our mountain morning.

Our next stop was the Italian Festival back in Vail Village. Much fun and good food was had by all despite the rain! This place is buzzing all year and there’s so much to do all summer too. Arts, Dance, Jazz, Theatre, Music and Food Festivals to name but a few.
Vail houses the Colorado Ski Museum and Golden features their famous export, Coors beer

Activities such as golfing, fly-fishing, hiking, mountain biking, rock-climbing, jeep tours, horse riding, whitewater rafting, hot-air ballooning, shopping and gallery walks are all available for your pleasure. There’s just as much for kids to do, too!

Another pastime is within the Vail Ski Museum. What an interesting venue to glimpse the past with great photographs and ski memorabilia. Wow! Has ski equipment ever come a long way. As it was raining outside we really enjoyed a peaceful hour or so here, also watching the daredevil ski films made by the famous Warren Miller.

Desserts are served at Sweet Basil as well as their famous Mediterranean Tomato Tower

We were looking forward to our dinner date venue at the well-known and much respected Sweet Basil Restaurant, again easily accessible from our hotel and central to the village. When we had asked ski-fiend friends months prior, where they recommended us to eat while here, Sweet Basil was always mentioned. So we were pleased

they could squeeze us in on a busy, as every night, Saturday.  From arrival, (to the press kit with some recipes, call us for a fax copy 366-7950), we immediately felt Proprietor Kevin Clair, Executive Chef Bruce Yim and Managing Partner Matt Morgan really knew what they were doing. Long-time, loyal staff can make all the difference to a well-run place and everyone here synchronised service in the efficient yet relaxed way of professionals. Most diners looked like regulars as they greeted each other and the staff. Host Sam and server Lisa Lockhart, here 9 years, took excellent care of our dining experience.

The not huge restaurant, (120 seats), was fitted to utilise every inch and was tranquilly decorated with spare lines of soft green hues and dark woods. At the front was the long bar and outside some attractive seating under huge umbrellas. The back wall of windows overlooked a very pleasant, leafy courtyard.

Our appetisers, the Grilled Asparagus and Roasted Beets, with balsamic honey glaze drizzled Maytag Blue cheese and the Mediterranean Tomato Tower­creamy French feta, crispy capers, calamata olives and tomato vinaigrette, were delicate, fresh, fresh, fresh and delicious, as well as wonderfully presented. Excellent house breads were offered from a rectangle basket, including an olive and a multi-grain baguette, (really wish we could get that here!) Our wines by the glass, the Terre Rouge dry Rosé and a Voignier were excellent complements to our first plates.

One dinner entrée choice, a long time favourite kept on the menu, was the Saffron Linguini with lobster, scallops, shrimp and chive cream We could see why as it was divine, deliciously light and brimming with seafood. Accompanying was the Grilled Spice Rubbed Wild Salmon with arugula pesto rice, coconut cream and shiitake glaze. The coconut added another dimension and it was a perfectly cooked meal. The salmon moist and slightly pink inside melted like butter in the mouth and the rice ever-so-slightly crunchy, not sticky. I was so happy with my dry Rosé I had another, while Neal enjoyed a Shiraz. This, like most of the restaurants we visited in CO offered a very good wine menu, also by the glass. We both really like this option and often choose different varietals to taste.

The dessert menu sounded equally tempting. After a rest, we had at taste of their famous Sticky Toffee Pudding Cake (recipe available by fax) and the special, Peach Panicotta with Port Wine Sorbet and home- made tuile. Pastry Chef Charles Broschinsky certainly did the restaurant proud with all his creations.

We had a very enjoyable time at Sweet Basil. Easy to see why is been so popular for so long.

The next day brought disappointing weather again and our plans to visit Aspen were unfortunately foiled. So after a relaxed breakfast and lazy morning we ventured out to the farmers market along the streets nearby and then made good use of the wonderful gym at the hotel.

A favorite  local hang out is The Red Lion, a sports and music pub that caught our fancy a few times. Great crowd!

We then drove to Beaver Creek, only about 10 miles from Vail. En route we visited the very new Ritz Carlton at Bachelor Gulch. This enormous “log” monolith is the zenith of the mountain life-style, the fireplace alone was twice my height and very imposing, as were the terrific views from the hotel.

Glass sculptor Dale Chihuly’s work graces Pismo in Beaver Creek

Beaver Creek was very quiet this time of year but thankfully there were some shops and boutiques open for our perusal. We especially loved Pismo Gallery which held some Dale Chihuly glassworks, which we always love to see. The Black Family Ice Rink, in the center of the village is open year round and a pretty highlight to see the skaters, young and older, especially after dark.

We then made our way up to the meeting point, above Beaver Creek,  for our evening dining adventure.

We were off to Beano’s Cabin and what a great dining experience the whole evening was for us all.

BEANO’S CABIN

Only two ways for the public to get to the restaurant: by horse-back or horse-drawn wagon. Well three, in winter by sleigh also, what a shame that didn’t run in the summer!

Again this restaurant, although having received awards for its cuisine and impeccable service, was “casual dress”...well how formal could you be arriving on a horse?

Beano’s Cabin welcomes those who wish to ride on horseback for their meal.

Arriving at the Beaver Creek Stables by 5.15pm we met up with our group of fellow diners. Most, along with Neal, opted to horse-ride up to the cabin, a 40 minute ride and fairly treacherous in places. I, on the other hand, chickened-out and joined a very nice couple for a stress-free tractor-drawn wagon ride up the slopes to the restaurant. The views of ski runs, forests and valleys below, and conversation, were great, and, well who else would take photos of the riders!

On arrival at this secluded, handsome log cabin establishment we were greeted on the front steps by the huge, resident porcupine enjoying his “happy hour,” munching through an enormous baguette quite unperturbed by us all fascinated by him!

We were welcomed and seated in the  cosy, yet high-ceilinged dining area decorated in reds and greens, with crisp white linens. The open kitchen, with its wood-burning oven was a hive of activity as the menus arrived and Manager Chris, and servers Trent and Heidi took good care of everyone.

The Chef’s amuse was a tiny taste of delicious mushroom bisque and the appetisers were excellent Asian style Dungeness Crab Spring Rolls and the Thai Barbecued Quail. We tasted these accompanied by a refreshing Proseco. The fresh house breads were wonderful also, comprising raisin walnut, French baguette and sourdough. Meanwhile we were all treated to the tranquil melodies of the excellent guitarist Mac McCain, who has been there since the opening 17 years ago.

We then shared the Honey Marinated Ostrich with Colorado corn risotto, chopped chives and chicken jus, and the Colorado Lamb Loin with creamed leeks, roasted shiittakes and fingerling potatoes. Both were very good and had great flavours. These complemented by a very nice Russian River Bearboat Pinot Noir 2000. Our table companions Ann and Fred were from Jacksonville and knew the Sarasota area well, which made for some good sharing.

The dessert selections did not disappoint either. We chose an Upside-down Lemon Tart, with a sweet citrus salad and basil ice cream, which was divine, and the Milk Chocolate Pecan Praline Mousse with a crispy dark chocolate base and a wonderfully fragrant Earl Grey ice cream. Very imaginative and successful! The wine list and after-dinner drinks were very comprehensive also.

What great find and a true dining experience is Beano’s Cabin. This is a must when travelling to the Vail area. By the way, you will be glad to know that we returned to Beaver Creek by bus!

Can’t you just hear it! Red Rocks Amphitheater, a natural “rock” concert venue

Our flight home from Denver was mid-afternoon and not wanting to waste the morning, we said good bye to Vail and set off for the famous Red Rocks Amphitheater and the Coors Brewery en route.
The magnificent Red Rocks outside Denver

What a stunning natural rock formation Red Rocks is. The City of Denver making the most of this unique and fabulous amphitheater for an unforgettable concert venue.

I can just picture U2 performing their magical concert here in the early 1980’s.

The Red Rocks Visitor Center is now open year-round. Summer hours (May-Sept) are 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. daily. Winter hours (October-April) are 9:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. daily. You are encouraged to tour the exhibits featuring the music history, geology, paleontology, and the Civilian Conservation Corp. The full tour takes approximately an hour to complete, (see more at www.redrocksonline.com).

The Coors Golden Brewery is the world's largest on a single site.
COORS BREWERY

Coors owns a second brewery in Memphis, Tenn., and a packaging facility in Virginia's Shenandoah Valley, near the town of Elkton, Va.

Free brewery tours are offered in both Golden (daily except Sundays and holidays) and Memphis (Thursday through Saturday). More than 250,000 visitors tour Coors' breweries each year. Guest Relations Brian Cox was our very pleasant and informative tour guide telling us that they have 400 to 2,000 visitors a day.

Coors owns and is a partner in operating the nation's largest aluminum can manufacturing plant, located in Golden, Colorado and is a partner in a glass-bottle manufacturing plant in Wheat Ridge, Colorado.

On January 22, 1959, led by Bill Coors, Coors Brewing Company introduced the first two-piece aluminum beverage can. Since then, Coors hasn't stopped improving on the packaging innovation that changed the beverage industry forever. Brewing Facts:

•    Adolph Coors was 26 years old when he opened his brewery in Golden, Colorado, in 1873. Having learned his craft in his native Germany, he came to the USA as a penniless stowaway in 1868 and headed west! On a visit to Golden, east of the Rockies, Adolph found natural springs that produced perfect brewing water. So it was here that he built his brewery.

Barley is to beer as grapes are to wine...Hops are used as spice to add flavour and aroma...Yeast is the active ingredient responsible for fermentation...Water is the foundation on which beer is built.

•    Today Coors ranks in the top 10 largest brewers in the world. In 2002, after acquisition, the company formed the UK’s second largest brewer, Coors Brewers Limited with the UK’s leading brand, Carling.

•    Coors uses an all-natural brewing process and the finest ingredients: ideal brewing water, hops, cereal grains (rice and refined corn starches), and barley. Coors has developed special strains of barley it malts itself to ensure product quality. Nothing artificial is in Coors beers.

•     On average, Coors takes 55 days to brew, age, finish and package its lagers about twice as long as its major competitors. The result is a naturally aged, stable and smooth product.

So, having made use of every minute in this great getaway destination of the beautiful State of Colorado...any time of year... we were now heading back to paradise, albeit hot and humid! We can’t wait to return.

Snaps by Neal Finelli

   
 
 
E-mail: finelli@tasteweb.net
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