The impressive Fairmont Empress, Victoria

ast January we had a wonderful time exploring the Seattle area, and made the most of our long flights from Florida, to continue north into beautiful British Columbia, Canada. Driving north from Seattle we headed out in the darkness in order to catch the Anacortes Ferry, nearly three hours drive away. There is only one a day to Sidney on nearby Vancouver Island, but this was our best route. However on arrival, in the pitch black early hours, we were to find that our ferry had been canceled for the day! On learning that our only option was to drive much further north to Tsawwassen, we wasted no time in getting going as it would prove to be a very tight connection.

These ferry systems didn’t help each other out much either, as they closed the barriers right in front of us, with three minutes to spare! Pleas for mercy went unheard and there we had to wait for the next ferry in two hours. Very frustrating and a waste of our limited time, but at least there was another ferry! A tip from us: give yourself plenty of time to reach the ferries and hope not to have a cancellation!

All was well on board though. It was a gorgeous day, sunny, calm and rather fresh! I was very glad I had bought hat and gloves. The views through the fir clad islands and of the San Juan Islands were stunning. The ferry was well equipped and comfortable and we enjoyed every minute of the sail.

The Empress Bedroom

We checked-in at the stately Fairmont Empress, our home for the next two days. Samantha Geer, Director - Public Relations, who was very helpful, pleasant and efficient in coordinating our stay at the Empress, met us to check that all was well.

Our elegant, spacious room was very comfortable with a fabulous view overlooking the Inner Harbour. We could see beautiful boats and sea planes coming and going. What a great way to travel to nearby Vancouver and all the islands. Having settled into our room, we were then ready for the hotel’s world famous Afternoon Tea.

Afternoon Tea has been a beloved pastime in the hotel since 1908, now serving more than 100,000 teas a year! Served in the charming Tea Lobby and in the renovated Palm Court, it was all very regal and made me feel homesick. The glorious setting was complete with palms, towering columns, marble floors, fresh linens and a view of the harbour. Our tea time was still busy despite being the middle of January!

World famous Afternoon Tea held in the beautiful Palm Court

Tiny sandwiches of smoked salmon, carrot and ginger, and cucumber, scones and preserves, pastries and fresh seasonal berries are all available, as well as a wide range of teas. The Empress tea china was originally presented to King George V in 1914 upon the opening of the Booth Factory in Stoke, England. The china was first used by the Empress in 1939, for the Royal visit of King George VI and Queen Elizabeth (now the Queen Mother). The pattern is now produced by Royal Doulton exclusively for the Empress.

May I say at this point, just for the record; this is traditionally afternoon tea. High Tea is something very different and often confused with the afternoon version. High Tea is a more substantial meal for late afternoon or early evening. It originated in the 19th century as a simple, workingman’s supper consisting of dishes such as Cornish Pasties, Welsh Rarebit, Scotch Woodcock and various other meats and fish. This as well as plenty of crumpets, biscuits, cakes and steaming pots of tea.

World famous Afternoon Tea held in the beautiful Palm Court

Service at our tea was casually formal, as was the dress code, and the whole, centuries-old, ceremony was thoroughly enjoyable. But all this gave rise to the need for exercise! So off we went to explore the impressive Fairmont Empress.

The Empress first opened in 1908. It has had an illustrious history of guests including many Royals and film star greats since the thirties. The hotel had a royal restoration in 1989 allowing upgraded rooms and amenities. Since the Victoria Conference Center was built next to the hotel, they have enjoyed an increase in corporate and convention guests.

Located in the heart of B.C.’s capital city, the Fairmont Express is on the Canadian Register of Heritage Properties. In 1996, Fairmont Hotels and Resorts, spent an additional $4 million to redecorate all 460 guest rooms, complete with duvets, ceiling fans, fresh furnishings and wall coverings. Entree Gold was also introduced offering elite service. A fitness area, pool, spa and sauna, as well as shops are all available for guests to enjoy.

The Bengal Lounge at the Empress

In 1997 and 1998, the hotel’s all day dining room, Kipling’s, (Sunday Brunch is another favourite here), was renovated and the famous Bengal Lounge was restored to its original grandeur. In 2000 it has seen the addition of 17 rooms on the 6th and mezzanine level, and this year will newly reclaim the 8th floor with 4 new suites.

Congratulations to the Fairmont Hotels &Resort Group on the extensive restorations and never-ending maintenance of this historical grand dame.

The hotel is so conveniently situated with nearby shops and restaurants, which we had to check out of course. Heather Leary, Media and P.R. Coordinator for Victoria Tourism, had kindly helped us with some suggestions of places to visit. We took her advice and had time to see the Crystal Garden first, which was very near the hotel. Opened in 1925, designed in the grand tradition of the great glass halls of Europe, it was, at one time the home of the largest swimming pool in the British Empire. After a brief closure in 1971 due to soaring costs, it reopened after an outpouring of protest, by 1980. It is now home to a sample of flora and fauna from the rainforest. No doubt a welcome respite on very cold winter days, as it is very hot and humid. The building also hosts weddings in its ballroom as well as concerts, and other functions.

We then experienced our first IMAX, “The Journey of Man.” We didn’t have far to get to the theater and it was fantastic. Those of you who have been to an IMAX will know and if you haven’t yet been, try to soon! After more shopping and walking, we found a great little restaurant, called Pagliacci’s. This was a happenin’ spot, with good food at great prices and terrific sounds provided by Stomp Club Jazz Band.

The following day, we were delighted to join Samantha for lunch in the Bengal Lounge for a curry. It was a buffet with all the delicious staples that orchestrate to make an Indian style curry. This was a real treat as the only time we can seem to get a good curry, is in England! It was well worth the visit, and the dark wood paneling, leather chairs, hunting artifacts from India and tiger skins, set the scene.

Over lunch we shared our stories and found Samantha to be well travelled and very suited to her part with PR for the hotel group. We talked a little of Victoria and how it is anxious to make its own identity after years of British influence. Quite right too, we are after all in the 21st century! Having said that, the historic British influence still combines well with the charm of the place and they have prospered very well from it over the years.

After lunch we caught the 2 hour Gray Line City Tour, just outside the hotel and learned some interesting facts: Victoria Island is the size of Switzerland; Rudyard Kipling lived here for some time and left his mark; from as long ago as 1670, when the Hudson Bay Company was formed, this was a busy trading post and the company is now called the Bay Company, still trading; the aboriginal people here were the Songese; Sooke means rolling hills or stickleback fish! Hmm? Folk law and anecdotes abound with these drivers, bless ‘em... “Lettuce and Lovage,” eat your heart out!

We drove through the lovely neighbourhoods and hills surrounding Victoria. Golf can be played all year here due to the temperate climate. We also had a few glimpses of seals, along the stunning rocky coastline of Ross Bay. The whole place reminded me strongly of New Zealand’s north island, with its low rise, low density buildings, soft hills, clean air and temperate climate and close marrying with mother nature.

Butchart Gardens is a very popular attraction tucked into a serene 130 acre country estate in the southeast corner of Victoria Island and is a garden of earthly delights in every season.

The legislative building on Government Square, where the hotel is situated, is a fabulous sight lit by 330,000 lightbulbs every night of the year, and appearing on most postcards.

Wonderful nature and parks mingle with the concrete everywhere and the Empress Hotel must look gorgeous in the spring with the 33,000 tulip bulbs planted in the gardens.

After more walking, we readied ourselves back at the hotel with great anticipation for our evening at the Sooke Harbour House, about an hour’s drive away. Owners of the Herbfarm had connected us, but what we experienced was even more wonderful than we had imagined.

The charismatic owner of the stunning Sooke Harbor House, Sinclair Philip

What we found was a most marvelous, serene, private and luxurious inn of the first degree. Owners Sinclair and Frederique Philip and family have obviously worked tirelessly to elevate hospitality to a high art. The Sooke Harbour House is a legendary year-round destination for escape and tranquility in the Pacific Northwest, and has been a retreat for many of the famous, such as Richard Gere, Sharon Stone, Cindy Crawford, Robert Deniro and Patrick Stewart.

The huge and very private guest areas (yes, apartments in themselves) are stunning and totally pampering. By gathering talented local craftspeople, artists, farmers, gardeners and chefs they have created a unique and wonderful place. It has an aura of romantic elegance and with the fresh regional cuisine of a five-star restaurant, award-winning wine cellar and its enviable position on the pristine Pacific. This place is truly outstanding.

One of the sumptuous, serene suites at the Sooke Harbour House

We were fortunate enough to time our visit when owner Sinclair could join us for dinner. We had a great evening sharing our world travel experiences, (he’s quite the story teller) and dining on the excellent and most fresh offerings from the kitchen that day. Sinclair’s son Benjamin took care of us admirably.

Our first tastes were of hot Smoked Salmon with a Lemon Thyme Custard, Cilantro Chervil yoghurt dressed with arugula flowers on a scented geranium leaf - exquisite. This with a very drinkable Hester Creek Pinot Blanc 1997, from Okanagan Valley, B.C.

Roasted Squash with a Gooseneck Barnacle Lemon Verbena Broth followed, served with flowering Miners lettuce, an intriguing little flower and leaf. It was a soft meld of delicate flavours. The freshness of everything just bursting forth. We had seen all the herb terraces and flower gardens earlier just outside the doors.

A Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 1999 was then to accompany Seared Scallops with Creamed Corn and Barley and Bacon, Fennel and Poppy Seeds with a mild chili drizzle - heaven.

The freshest Tuna with King Oyster Mushrooms and Miso Soy with a hint of Ginger along with a glass of 1999 Sumac Ridge Sauvignon Blanc was our next delight.

Having thought that was plenty, Seared Duck with Fingerling Potatoes, Organic Carrots and Bok Choi in a blackcurrant and maple syrup reduction then arrived. Wow! What a pairing, then, with a taste of an Okanagan Valley Pinot Noir 1998.

The exquisite food at Shooke Harbour House

After a stroll and Sinclair sharing more of their beautiful Sooke Harbour House, we returned to the table for a taste of some local made cheese, a Goat Cheese, a Sheep’s milk - Montagne, and Moonstruck!, resembling Stilton. Just gorgeous, and of course so fresh, with hazelnuts and a hazelnut toffee!

Well we couldn’t have topped that, but the most delicious simple finale came in the form of a Baked Golden Delicious Apple with a Caramelized Anjou Pear and Ice Cream, which we shared!

Another terrific and memorable evening was added to our travelogue. I just hope we can go back to that most special place sometime soon! (Hint, hint Neal)

Departing lovely Victoria all too soon, we headed off early to catch the Swartz Bay ferry to Tsawassen and onto Vancouver, only about half an hour’s drive away. Wow, what a city! Much bigger than I had imagined with its hundreds of towering high rise apartments blocks reaching for the skies, encrusting the lovely shorelines.

The luxurious and friendly Wedgewood Hotel, Vancouver

Our destination this time was the Wedgewood Hotel situated on Hornby Street downtown Vancouver. The very handsome place with its smart black and gold awnings and top hat and tailed doorman, was an inviting entrance to this cosy, elegant boutique hotel.

Privately owned and operated by Greek-born Eleni Skalbania, the Wedgewood combines every comfort and facility expected of a great hotel with the intimate smart feel that only a small luxury hotel can give. On arrival, we were greeted by pleasant and helpful Joanna Tsaparas, Director of Sales and Marketing who had kindly coordinated everything for us. She gave us a tour of the hotel and we saw for ourselves what a little jewel it is.

The Lobby

The 14 storey, 89 room hotel was opened in 1984 by Eleni and is set in the center of Vancouver’s thriving and cosmopolitan downtown. The elegant and charming interior design, antiques and artwork all work together to create a professional, city, yet cosy and luxurious atmosphere.

Bacchus is the jewel in the crown, in the form of the Wedgewood’s very excellent award-winning restaurant. Richly upholstered furniture, warm, dark cherry wood and Murano Crystal fixtures from Venice set the opulent scene. Then there’s the food! (Later).

Before our evening’s enjoyment in Bacchus we had time to do some shopping and sightseeing. We found the, Hop On Hop Off Trolley Tour, the type we like best. We very much enjoyed the tour, relaxing and getting a feel for the place. Vancouver is a ‘young’ city, with the majority of dwellers under the age of thirty!

Penthouse Parlour

The city has eight yacht clubs, so that will give an indication as to how water orientated it is there. The panorama of mountains on almost every skyline, added so much beauty and majesty. They are mostly named after animals, for example Grouse Mountain. We saw Stanley Park, with its six Botanical Gardens, Totem Poles, Aquarium and stately Lion’s Gate Bridge. We also saw a black squirrel, apparently peculiar to this area only.

We drove through Gastown, full of gassing, the talk in all the restaurants, bars and shops! This is the older area of town with much character. As Vancouver’s climate is relatively mild, they rarely get snow, and with its proximity to the mountains and water, it’s a very attractive place to live.

Most of those 40,000 live in the hundreds of high-rise tower blocks, fringing the shores of all the surrounding waters. I must admit that we were surprised to see how large Vancouver has grown, and upwards rather than outwards! It’s called Hong-couver by many locals with its large influence and population of Asians. It certainly grew up from the 1850’s gold rush. The cherry blossoms were out in January!

The extensive Chinatown is obviously the place for Asian foods of all sorts and Dim Sum to die for, I was assured! We saw Granville Island, its buzzing market and shops and beautiful English Bay. Due to the kind climate and the great value Canadian dollar, much movie-making goes on here. Filmed here over the years was The Russia House, Double Jeopardy. Free Willy Jumanji, Cousins and many more.

The superb Bacchus Restaurant

It was now time to prepare for our evening’s delights at Bacchus, which had garnered Vancouver Magazine Reader’s Most Memorable Meal and Most Romantic Restaurant 2000 Awards. Ultra talented Executive Chef Cameron Caskie is part of the new generation of chefs leading the way in Canada with their modern French cuisine.Young (well, don’t they all seem young nowadays?), fun, friendly, relaxed, and Scottish (as if you couldn’t have guessed) Cameron was great company, as well as being very knowledgeable. After his training, he worked for six years in London with Idris Caldora, a Bocuse d’ Or chef, at the Churchill and prepared menus for the likes of the English National Ballet and the late Diana, Princess of Wales. Since joining the Wedgewood in 1999 he has overseen many memorable occasions such as a Winemaker’s Dinner for Baron Philippe de Rothschild.

Plush velvet banquettes (the highest I have ever seen apart from in Ovo), Chesterfields and wing-back chairs were our most gorgeous choices for seating. Dark and masculine, I just I loved this place.

Most memorable meal award

The fresh flowers, flickering candles and soothing piano music completed the relaxing and sumptuous atmosphere beautifully. Adrian, who took good care of us, firstly brought our Amuse Bouche, which was a tiny Portobella Mushroom Tart with asparagus. The bread basket included some lighter crispbreads which is always welcome.

The appetizer we shared consisted of the Caramelized Sea Scallops with a fine sliver of sauteed cauliflower in a wild baby watercress froth. A great, yet delicate combination.

Our second course choices were the fabulous Soup of Chantrelle and the Salt Spring Island Goat Cheese with a beetroot tartare, arugula salad and avocado oil. The tartness of the beetroot and the richness of the goat cheese, was a superb pairing. Sommelier Fergus O’ Halaran was on hand to assist with our wine accompaniments, and our first was the Sumac Ridge ‘99 Sauvignon Blanc which we had so enjoyed at the Sooke Harbour House in Victoria.

The entrees we chose to share were the day’s special, the Bouillabaisse, and the Daube of Venison. Much of the very flavourful Bouillabaisse came without shell, which was helpful and the quote of the day was, “Don’t want to fight it, I want to eat it!” The Daube or French red wine based stew, was gorgeous with the braised venison and a slight chocolate infusion similar to a mild mole sauce. What a great idea, the blend of flavours was excellent. We were treated to a family reserve Quail’s Gate Estate (Okanagan Valley) Pinot Noir ‘98, which was a heavenly pairing.

We ventured into the adjoining Cigar Room, whilst digesting, and noted the many wine and culinary awards displayed. Another richly decorated and most comfortable room for guests to enjoy.

The always busy slopes of Whistler Mountain

Bacchus offers a very good cheeseboard, mostly European, from which we had a few tastes. Then Chef couldn’t resist, and we tasted his very delicious Apricot Souffle with some Late Harvest Quail’s Gate Optima ‘98 Ice Wine. Really fab! Thanks to Chef Cameron and the very nice staff at Bacchus for making it a most memorable meal for us too!

Before retiring, we had to walk and even found a nearby club still buzzing and joined in for a bop on the dance floor!

We were so pleased as our last day in this lovely region was to be spent with family friends, locals Ann and Tom, who kindly collected us and took us off to Whistler Mountain. The weather improved as the day developed and cooperated long enough for us to spend a wonderful few hours at this gorgeous site.

The skyline of Vancouver

Whistler is about a two hour windy drive from the city, but the roads are good and wide. We parked in an underground lot at the resort and coming up, out of the door into the ski area was like discovering some wonderful kind of Pandora’s Box. All the colours of the ski clothes and hundreds of people, of all ages coming and going, laughing and talking, it was a sight I won’t forget.

With no time to ski we made the most of the scenery by taking the ski lift to the top and were rewarded with spectacular views. Everywhere so crisp, white, clean and healthy. After enjoying a light lunch at the resort in La Boca! it was time to head back to Vancouver.

We had enjoyed every minute of our first visit to this most beautiful and friendly region Canada and we can’t wait to return.

By Vanessa Shaw-Finelli     

SERVICES:

The Fairmont Empress 721 Goverment Street, Victoria, BC, Canada V8W 1WS Tel: 250 389 2717 www.fairmont.com	Wedgewood Hotel 845 Hornby Street, Vancouver, BC Canada V6Z 1V1 Tel 1-800-663-0666 www.wedgewoodhotel.com
Sooke Harbour House 1528 Whiffen Spit Road Sooke, BC, Canada V0S 1NO Tel: 250 642 3421 www.sookeharbourhouse.com