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Las Vegas...really?
Not our “cup of tea” really! But the restaurant
scene had become too hot to ignore. So off to Vegas we
set, with some trepidation.
We arrived late at night. Flying across the dark, empty
expanses of the central and western States, we suddenly
came upon the neon oasis, that man-made conglomerate,
that mega (out-on-a-limb) project in the desert called
Las Vegas (the meadows!). What man is capable of...scary/incredible.
Due to its construction in less developed times, the airport
is right at the end of The Strip. So, wonder of wonders,
no hotel is too far way. A brief transfer to our hotel
was a good start.
The Mirage lobby and
gaming areas were all I had imagined the atmosphere to
be. Busy, gaudy and full of people from all walks of life.
The hotel opened in 1989, setting a new standard of excellence
for Las Vegas, to a tune of $630 million. This was the
first new resort hotel to be built in the city. Wow, was
it a trail blazer! Its success ignited a $9 billion expansion
over the last ten years, and the world class cutting edge
hotel resorts that we find there today. If you haven’t
been to Vegas in the last four years, you haven’t
been to Vegas!
Checking-in was swift and smoothly executed by the friendly
experienced staff. This, enhanced by the amazing 20,000
gallon coral reef aquarium, stocked with a range of fish
including sharks, puffer and angel fish!
We were taken up to our gorgeous suite. If the first floor
felt a little dated, this accommodation definitely did
not. This was a first class Longboat Key condo with all
the trappings, including a bar! The master bathroom was
my delight. Huge, marble and sumptuous. I was happy.
We decided to make the most of the late night and explore
the hotel. However, not before enjoying the fabulous view
from our enormous windows, overlooking The Strip and the
Mirage’s unique erupting volcano below us! Quite
a spectacle.
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The stunning
Venetian -
Venice in Vegas!
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The Mirage has several award-winning restaurants. The
top one being “Renoir”
just named in this month’s Food and Wine’s top
50 U.S. hotel restaurants list. All the restaurants were
lavishly decorated in different themes, each creating
its own unique atmosphere. We even loved “The
Roasted Bean,” a great little coffee bistro
that the crowds didn’t seem to know about!
The casino is centrally
set amidst the tropical decor. Comfortable and unpretentious
it offers a variety of slots, video poker and table games.
We had to have a taste of the slots before retiring for
the night, just to make us feel like we were really here.
Losers!
We decided to visit The Venetian,
across the road, the next morning for breakfast. This
much touted hotel and resort was all that, flamboyant
developer Sheldon Adelson, made it out to be. On the site
of the old Sands, this 3,036 suite, $1.5 billion mega
luxury hotel began its creation in 1997. Complete with
the famed replica of the Grand Canal and other famous
Venetian landmarks it is, Venice in Vegas. Well not quite,
if you’ve been to THE Venice. A-mazing though. With
its soaring lobby ceilings adorned in faux masters with
massive gilt frames, stunning marble floors with intricate
inlay and towering columns it truly was born of the OTT
Vegas style...but you had to love it! The Venetian holds
the Guinness Book of Records for the largest standard
hotel rooms in the world. Lavish spending: if it can be
dreamed of; they can build it, was the repeating thought
we voiced many times during our stay.
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The Grand Canal
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We took time to visit the integral
Guggenheim Hermitage Museum.
Small and not overwhelming it then housed a, Masterpieces
and Master Collectors exhibit as well as The Art of the
Motorcycle display of over 120 from the earliest to the
latest, most excellent specimens. It was wonderful to
see some original works by Monet,
Picasso Matisse and Kandinsky in this unlikely
city!
We then took advantage of a sunny but cool day, to see
the resident stars Siegfried
and Roy’s Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat
back at The Mirage. This was worth visiting and a close-up
look at the magnificent white tigers, white lions, black
panthers and snow leopards that are their pampered pets
as well as co-performers.
The lush environment behind the pool area, is home to
a family of Bottlenose Dolphins
and guided tours are conducted during the day. Always
a treat and honor to view those superb mammals so closely.
There was also a video of a rarely seen dolphin birth
on the tour, and viewing areas above and below water level.
Gift and clothing boutiques, the inviting Spa and Salon
completed our tour of the hotel, except to mention the
other resident star, comedian and showman, the ever-popular
Danny Gans.
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‘O’
at the Bellagio. It defies
description. Just see it!
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After preparing for the evening we were off to the Bellagio,
another fabulous resort hotel of the new genre, for an
early dinner and to see Cirque
du Soleil’s performance of O. We chose to
try the informal Cafe Bellagio
which had a choice for everyone and was very enjoyable.
Then for another treat; O.
Having seen La Nouba
in Disney World, we knew we there for a fabulous evening.
What an apt venue for O. Pure fantasy on an unparalleled
level. If you have never had a Cirque du Soleil experience
I urge you to take the opportunity. It’s like nothing
you’ve ever seen before. The ultimate entertainment.
The fantastic journey of the
Cirque’s team’s power of imagination began in
1984 with the assistance of the Quebec Government. It
was part of the celebrations surrounding the 450th anniversary
of Jacques Cartier’s arrival in Canada. Cirque is
based on a totally new concept: a striking, dramatic mix
of the circus arts and street entertainment, featuring
wild, outrageous costumes, staged under magical lighting,
direction and music. There’s not an animal in sight.
The company and performances have gone from strength to
strength since its inception in 1984, with worldwide shows.
There are 7 international tours currently running. Alegria
and Saltimbanco (Asia-Pacific), Quidam
(European), O and Mystere
(Las Vegas), Dralion
(North America) and La Nouba
(Orlando).
As anticipated O did not disappoint. With its synchronized
swimming, trapeze artists, fire act, Russian swing, cadre,
high dive, Mongolian contortionists, aerial hoops, flying
man, bungee, garden swing, characters, clowns and musicians
it was an unforgettably magnificent performance.
Guy Laliberte was the
Founding President. Himself an accordion player, stiltwalker
and fire-eater. The daring visionary with great “people”s
skills, plus a small group of kindred spirits and the
government backing, created the soon-to-be-famous Cirque
du Soleil. Drawing on international talent of the highest
level they have evolved the shows into the cutting-edge
spectacles they are today.
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The incredible fountain
how at the Bellagio
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The concept of staging an aquatic show at Bellagio was
conceived in late 1994 by Cirque du Soleil and Mirage
Resorts. The unique 1,800-seat theatre took two and a
half years to build and has tiered, balcony seating. The
height of the stage to the bottom of the pool is 145 feet,
the equivalent of a nine-story building.
The pool, the stage centerpiece and recurring element,
is massive, holding 1.5 million gallons of water to a
depth of 25 feet! The water is kept at 87 degrees F for
the performers. Other statistics include, 42 miles of
cable, 1695 dimmers, thermoforming curtains developed
by Cirque, a stage made of steel and fiberglass combined
with PVC and sports matting with over 5000 holes drilled
in for drainage show a little of what a mammoth operation
this is. Well worth it, as far as we, and anyone we know
who’s seen a Cirque du Soleil performance, are concerned!
Here’s to more of the same for many years to come.
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And Neptune said,
"SHOP AT CAESARS!"
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Enjoying the not yet late evening, we mused our way through
the Bellagio, in awe of the indoor gardens, galleries
and designer shops on Via Bellagio, stopping to watch
the superb dance of the fountains at the front of the
hotel. A treat we had a few times during our stay. This
led us onto next door, Caesars
Palace. Here we found the restaurant Aqua,
for tastes of dessert and coffee. The restaurant is dressed
in beautiful shades of, yes, aqua with watery features
too. A surprise was the interior, as well as the exterior
of Caesars. What a pioneer in its time it must have been,
and still in great shape. Don’t be discouraged by
these older hotels in Las Vegas, they have all undergone
mega-million dollar face-lifts. It was stunning inside
with white marble everywhere.
Surprise after surprise...this time in the shape of the
shopping mall there. Unbelievable under a huge faux sky,
with gorgeous lighting effects and Italianate fountains
and statues. The famed Forum.
Really gorgeous well worth seeing/and shopping.
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Always busy,
always fun - The Strip
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After having a light breakfast the next morning, at the
venerable Roasted Bean, we were off to discover the rest
of The Strip. We agreed a few taxi rides were in order
and thereby made our way to New
York, New York with its outdoor roller coaster
clinging to the hotel walls. After a somewhat brief overview
just to get the feel of the place we headed for MGM.
An huge amazing interior once more, with the ambiance
somewhere between a really good cinema and Hollywood.
Via the tram we headed onto
Luxor. I had not expected
to like this place. Again I was pleasantly surprised.
Its vast prismic interior was very peaceful and not every
corner was filled with slot machines. Another ingenious
design team created a little Egypt, with related gifts
in the shops, visuals and dining themes throughout. The
outside of course was just as impressive, with two gigantic
sphinx on guard. After a rest and a tea revival we took
a taxi to the very beautiful, Paris.
More stunning effects, another enormous faux sky. We liked
this hotel lobby very much with its extremely high airy
ceilings and elegant white marble and gilt check-in area.
The massive Eiffel Tower replica was central and brilliant.
An elevator can take you up to different levels for great
views of Las Vegas and the very formal restaurant. The
shops, cafes and restaurants all seemed so wonderfully
authentic.
We met up with my parents here, (they were sharing this
holiday with us), for dinner at the very enjoyable bistro,
Mon Ami Gabi. Although we were told by a cab driver that
Vegas was down 80% since September 11th, Paris was busy
and so was our bistro. We were lucky to get a window table
without too much wait. Here we had a great view of the
Bellagio Fountains across the road and watched the lovely
water and light shows. Our meal was very good and we had
fun sharing the experiences of each other’s day.
We had planned this trip months prior, for the week after
Thanksgiving, in the hopes that the place would be as
quiet as it could be! We were not disappointed. The weekdays
are also quieter than, the always very booked and busy,
weekends. After a walk, shop and ice cream along Paris’
excellent Le Boulevard,
a narrow, cobblestone street lined with boutiques and
cafes, we returned to The Mirage for a well-deserved good
night’s rest.
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The Grand Canyon
and Hoover Dam are just a short flight away on
Air Vegas Airline. True wonders of the world.
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After breakfast and a brief
shop in the nearby Fashion Mall, we readied ourselves
for our long-awaited flight to the Grand
Canyon. This was at least half the reason we wanted
to come to Las Vegas, to see the Hoover Dam and the Canyon.
My mother gave us all the flights for a Christmas gift,
so we were excited. We were very pleased with the tour
company. They arranged to pick us up at The Mirage, and
return of course. They gave approximate timing, and stuck
to it! Air Vegas Airlines,
with the help of Gail Stewart “made” our holiday.
The company offered several different packages, by motor
coach, rail, plane, helicopter or boat, and combinations,
with videos included! We chose a half day trip which worked
very well for our itinerary. We were extremely fortunate
to fly at all, as a bad weather front had approached the
previous day when our original reservation was held, but
Air Vegas managed to fit us in the next day, with, thankfully
fine weather. Phew! It was a close call, we would have
been so disappointed.
While I’m on the subject of weather, may I add that
anyone we had previously talked to about going to Vegas
had said how warm it was. Just to be sure I checked weather.com
a few days prior to our departure from Florida, and I
found, much to our amazement and delight, that there was
to be an unusual cold front all the time we were there!
So we had to re-think our clothing, those capri pants
would definitely not have sufficed! We now use that site
prior to any trip.
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Yes, don't forget
old
as Vegas on Fremont
Street, pardner
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Our flight lasted nearly two
hours. Just right for me, with our long flight back to
Florida, looming. It was so worth it, so spectacular.
The Hoover Dam was magnificent as was the scenery. The
barren, rock, flat topped gorges plunging to radically
meandering muddy tributaries of the Colorado, far below.
The plane was a 16-seater and we all had windows. The
seats were comfortable and the flight was great. The tiny
airfield was great too, with all amenities and a gift
shop.
It was Air Vegas’ 30th anniversary year, and we’re
not surprised. They did a fine job. Nice to know if you
are wanting to do the same. Congratulations to them and
continued success.
Having re-grouped back at the hotel, we four caught a
cab to see what old Vegas was like, and the lights on
Fremont Street. Hmm!
Funky. The lights were amazing. Winners.
Mum and dad wanted to see Rio
and their amazing seafood buffet and we set off for Mandalay
Bay. Again a magnificent structure and collection
of restaurants, cafes and entertainment. To my surprise
I liked this hotel too, very smart and rather sophisticated,
appealing to a younger crowd.
Well we were there to seek out the now famous Aureole,
(halo/circle of light) restaurant. Our visit this time
was just for champagne and appetizers, which were a tasting
of Foie Gras with Brioche and a trio of sauces and Seared
Scallops with Créme Fraiche Potatoes. Both of which were
delectable. They also have an A la Carte and Degustation
menu.
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Wine from the heavens at Aureole
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While soaking up the smart atmosphere, we watched the
Wine Angel retrieve
bottles of wine from the four story high Wine
Tower, the innovative element that put this restaurant
on the map. She’s attached by a harness and ascends
and descends very gracefully at will.
Continuing our discoveries we strolled by the fun and
extravagant Rumjungle.
A hip restaurant with many water falls with flames (!)
situated as slim area dividers.
Our next stop was Red
Square for dessert and coffee, well and a vodka.
Yet another incredible establishment with very high ceilings
and all antiqued in a Russian theme, complete with easily
the most enormous selection of vodka I have ever seen.
This was now a Thursday night and we could tell the whole
place was starting to fill up.
We then took a leisurely walk onto The
Four Seasons next door, admiring their Christmas
display all in exquisite chocolate. We sat by the fire
in the lobby area and made the most of some quiet moments.
This was the only hotel in Vegas without any gambling,
and it was very quiet!
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Nectar in the Bellagio - is
was, Drinks always at the ready.
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Friday morning and people were arriving in droves for
the weekend, proving not to be a good time to try The
Mirage breakfast buffet. Well, we had to try one. Very
crowded with quite a wait, but a good choice selection.
The only place we wait for breakfast is on beautiful Anna
Maria Island for Gulf Drive Cafe’s great offerings.
We enjoyed the last hours in our luxurious suite, left
our luggage with the Bell Captain and headed off to the
Bellagio once more. The afternoon was great just shopping
and people-watching. Then we found Nectar,
where we had reservations for an early dinner, prior to
our late flight home.
Nectar’s bold “nature” theme was designed
by Chicago’s Jordan Mozer. It was very “Gaudiesque,”
with high, fat branch shaped columns, warm woods, hammered
copper accents, plush jewel toned banquettes and sofas,
whimsical lighting and wall art depicting enormous fruit
was very inviting and unpretentious for a change. We immediately
felt relaxed.
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Talented and
personable Chef John Schenk
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Chef John Schenk, of
New York’s lauded Monkey Bar and Clementine, matches
the wild surroundings with bold fresh flavorful tastes.
With the “best of American cooking, uncomplicated
and recognizable with a twist, satisfying and effective,”
no wonder this place is a great success. It also showcases
a vast raw bar. Chef John was very personable and a lot
of fun, coming to sit with us for a chat a few times during
our meal. How refreshing, and unusual.
Adjoining Nectar is their fun Cocktail Bar staged by G.M.
and well known mixologist, Marie Maher. This place was
buzzing.
Our appetizer tastings consisted of the delicious Asparagus
Salad, with Roasted Beets and Maytag Blue Cheese, a terrific
blend of opposing textures and the BBQ’d Spare Rib
and Green Salad Tomato Salad. This came with crispy runner
beans and a thyme vinaigrette. Again an interesting and
tangy contrast of the green tomatoes and sweeter ribs.
Chef also sent us the Crispy Wasabi Marinated Shrimp and
Avocado Salad with a Cucumber Mint Broth, which was brilliant.
The shrimp were wrapped in an ultra-fine Lebanese pastry,
called katafi, and the broth was made with rice
wine vinegar. Superb.
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Chili Rubbed
Pork Chop with Green Tomale, Charred Tomatoes
and Onions.
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Susan, our server was excellent, friendly, (not too),
and efficient. Our entree choices were the Chili Rubbed
Pork Chop with Green Tomale, Charred Tomatoes and Onions
and the day’s special, Sautéed Scallops with
Roasted Carrots and Red Pepper, Sugar Snap Peas in a Lemon
Grass Broth. Both again bursting with contrasting high
flavors.
It was lucky that we were not in hurry as the six basic,
but tempting sounding desserts were calling. The Hot Chocolate
Cake and the Lemon Ice Box were our choices to taste.
Divine. Nectar was well worth the visit. Comfortable,
relaxed yet great service and refreshing delicious food.
Can’t beat that! We’ll be back.
We could have spent another month trying all the fun and
fabulous eating establishments but the office was calling
us home. Shortly after our return a friend asked us if
we’d go again. On looking at each other, we both
agreed that we would. Not next week or next year, but
definitely sometime. Wow! What a turn around for us, but
what a job they had achieved with Las Vegas. Definitely
worth a visit, whatever your religion!
Services:
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